Waterlox users, what gives


A little irritated that I can't make Waterlox high gloss finish work. I'm still in test mode with this doing picture frames. I've tried wiping, brushing, brushing, wiping, sanding between coats, etc.
It leaves streaks, looks horrible, etc.
My process is two coats of the original followed by two coats of the gloss.
The original/sealer looks like a million bucks. The gloss however doesn't. My gut tells me to thin it a bit because it seems like it is too darn thick. But my brain says it will dull the gloss if I do that.
Thoughts? SH
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gloss.
doesn't.
thick.
Got tooth? Maybe the higher viscosity coats can't adhere to the surface slickened by the sealcoats.
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On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 08:15:48 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"

I also got streaks the one time I tried brushing Waterlox. After scraping it flat, I wiped on 2 or 3 more coats and the mantle looks great.

Various thoughts:
Warm the Waterlox prior to applying. (I now soak my house paint in a warm-water-filled sink prior to painting and it works really well.) Apply to 70 wood. If that's still too thick to brush, thin it a bit.
What I'd probably do is to scrape or sand the ridges out and -wipe- on 3 more coats, but I'm a medium sheen lover, not a glosser.
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spake:

I'm a wiper myself. The stuff is too thick to apply with a rag. It's just too thick period. I'll try the warm it up method. I'm also a medium sheen guy. But every once in a while someone wants something glossed. Like this damn picture frame! Sheesh.
Thanksabunch. SH
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On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 14:08:51 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"

Too thick? Fresh, Original Med. sheen is like 10-weight oil! Did you let yours sit open too long and it gelled on you? You need to use a de-oxydizer (such as Bloxygen) to keep that from happening.
Perhaps the extra solids (39 vs. 27%) in the high-gloss thicken it up and a bit of thinner would help. I'm curious myself and have just sent a query to Waterlox. I'll post their reply when I get it.
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spake:

Yep. Butt, even when the jug was new, it still seemed to thick.
You

I have a bottle on order now.

Thanks again. SH
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Make sure to wait 24 hours in-between coats. I apply about six coats- then wait a couple of weeks after the last coat for the whole thing to cure. After that, rub with automotive swirl remover or rottenstone and baby oil to bring out the gloss. Ive used this method with the Waterlox in a gelled state with no problems. I use just the regular, not the high gloss- though this method should work with both.
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On Tue, 07 Jun 2005 21:02:09 -0700, the inscrutable Larry Jaques

Here are the two replies I got from David Zarzour at Waterlox: --snip-- Dear Larry:
Thanks for writing us... Sorry that you have had a problem. First, are you sure that the can has turned to a gel, and not just formed a skin on the top? If a skin forms, simply remove it or poke through it, and pour the liquid Waterlox into another container and it should be just fine. You may want to pour it through a disposable strainer that you can find in any paint store ( an old nylon stocking will work too!)
If it has gelled though, there is not much that can be done...An unopened or partially used can of Waterlox has an indefinite shelf life. However, Waterlox dries through oxidation. When a container is opened, it is exposed to oxygen. Also, when a partially used container closed, air in the closed container can cause the remaining unused portion to harden.
Oxidation is the same thing that makes red wine go bad once it is opened. We want you to use every drop of Waterlox Tung Oil products on your beautiful wood floors and furniture, NOT have it dry out while sitting in the can!
In the future, for the best results, pour out the Waterlox that you need to do the job, and promptly reseal the container (replace both the metal seal and screw top). It is also a good idea to remove the oxygen in the can by any one of the methods discussed below. It may seem like a lot of fuss, but hey, we're talking about WATERLOX here!
* Transfer unused portions of Waterlox to smaller, air-tight, tightly sealed jars or cans * Raise the level in the original container by adding clean marbles or clean stones to the container. * Squeeze the sides of the can together to move the liquid to the top of the can, displacing the oxygen. * There is also a product called Bloxygen an inert gas that displaces the oxygen to the container. (If you save just one half of a can of our product, it pays for itself!)
We even had a guy tell us that he blows into the can (you exhale carbon dioxide) I don't know if we want to get that "up close and personal" with our products, but you get the idea: Less oxygen, better Waterlox.
I hope this helps
David Zarzour Marketing Coordinator Waterlox Coatings Corp --snip--
I then asked again about the viscosity differences and thinning: --snip-- Our Gloss is a little thicker and has higher solids than our Sealer Finish, but if your friend says that his is too thick to wipe on, it has probably gelled, and thinner will not bring it back. You can thin our products with any mineral spirit, up to 10%.
/dz mc wcc --snip--
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spake:

The stuff only gelled at the top. I did poke through to get through the "skin". Bloxy is on order, I will warm the stuff and thin it no more than 10% before application. Think I'll try Bob's advice too on the automotive polish rubout.
I think that cuts to the chase so to speak. Thanks again Larry for helping out here on my waterlox dillemma!
OT but it's sposed to rain in Astoria tomorrow so get your umbrella out for Saturday. SH - The *weather* you like it or not woodworker
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On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 09:03:35 -0700, the inscrutable "Slowhand"

So why didn't you SAY so? <sigh> Once it skins on top, the rest tends to gel. Once thicker, it won't wipe nearly as well. DAMHIKT.

With an 85% gloss factor, you probably won't have much to rub out.

De nada.

You're in the Portland (PNW) weather stream. We don't get NEARLY as much rain down here in our little valley. I don't see rain in the forecast until next Weds.
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Forecast??! Weather guessing in the PNW's mostly a crapshoot, at best (you're south, in Medford or GP, right? -- so might be a little better down there ..)
Here in pdx I have about as much luck by looking out the window to the west....
Regards, JT
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On Thu, 9 Jun 2005 19:34:22 +0000 (UTC), the inscrutable John Thomas

Grass Pants. My Rogue Valley gets much less rain than the coast or youse guys north of it. 32 inches annually is enough.

Same here sometimes. Orygun weather DO change a mite, wot?
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Yep. speshully in the spring, summer, fall, and winter ..
(I think we only get ~24" here in pdx ... but thats just from memory)
Regards,
JT
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 13:48:44 +0000 (UTC), the inscrutable John Thomas

In GP, the late spring/summer/early fall are just like LoCal. Hot, sunny, cloudless, and rainless for at least 5 months without a break.

That's why it is always raining up there. SOMEONE lost the leading digit (124".)
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Larry Jaques wrote:

Interesting ................ Haven't heard of warming paint in years, Guess since the water based stuff took over from the oil. My Grandfather used to paint his cars with a brush and would hang the paint can in a tub of hot water. Oil based paint. The brush marks would just disappear and the gloss was wonderful, better than the original spray jobs. Just an aside :) regards John
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Yep, as a viscosity reducer, heat works. It'd work better still with tooth.
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On Wed, 08 Jun 2005 05:28:00 GMT, the inscrutable John B

Hey, I'm in good company!
I figured out that one way to make the paint flow into the "paint stick" tube more easily was to heat it after noticing how thick it got in the colder shop. Since the paint appeared to be temperature sensitive, I warmed some in the sink. It became half as thick after it got above room temperature. It also leveled better. It's simple to warm gallons in the kitchen sink, too. Soak for 10 minutes, shake the can, rewarm the water; Repeat twice and it moves from a honey-like substance into a much more watery substance!
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