Veneering tool?


I was just thinking that it might be very useful to make a "super straightedge" for cutting veneer. The trouble with the common aluminum straightedge is that it can be unexpectedly difficult to keep it from moving slightly when making a cut, or to unknowingly jiggle it out of place. I'm thinking of going to the local machine shop and getting a piece of steel about 3/4" thick, 4" wide and 4' long with a bevel along one or both sides. I could tap some screw holes on top for handles. That sucker would stay wher it was placed, before and during the cut.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Assuming that you are trying to straighten the edge to edge join two pieces of veneer: You could straighten the edge by using a shooting board... fold the two pieces of veneer together and clamp the veneer between two pieces of MDF or particle board, and to the bench, with the edge of the veneer sticking proud of the boards a bit (e.g., 1/8" or less). Shoot the edge of the veneer with the plane resting on the workbench. The idea is to joint the edge using the length of the plane as the straight edge and NOT the boards.
John
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Hi John, Would you expand on that a bit for us slower folks. Thanks, JG
John Grossbohlin wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

snip
I posted some pictures in ABPW that demonstrate the process.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks, JG
John Grossbohlin wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
wrote:

Super straightedges are great - I do a lot of picture framing.
It's not weight that's useful, it's the foam or fabric underneath. Fine shirtmaking corduroy is the best nonslip I've found so far (thinner than mousemat)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I worked in graphic arts for 35 years, our favorite straightedges were hardened steel, not neccessarily heavy but usually backed with something to keep them from slipping, sometimes only a strip of masking tape. Thicker materials for backing would raise the straightedge too high, allowing your blade or whatever to undercut it. If you're looking for machined straight edges cheap, check with print shops and ad agencies, or watch for auctions from them. The edges of their light tables have a removable, adjustable steel bar, 1-3" x 3/8" x size of table side that is precisely machined. Probably not Starret standards straight, like for setting up a jointer, but plenty accurate for what you want. They also make a good router guide for jointing boards without use of a jointer. There are many abandoned light tables all over the country, from a time when most layout work was done by hand. Since the bars are usually chromed, rust is not a problem.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Site Timeline

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.