Tinting stains

Granddaughter wants the bed I am building her to be red. I'd rather stain than paint. Any recommendations on getting to red using an oil-based stain? The material is two-bys in decent construction grade.
Larry
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On 2/21/2015 4:38 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

At the risk of being soundly chastised: Cherry oil stain. It will be a *dark* red but still...
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On Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 5:38:48 PM UTC-6, Gramps' shop wrote:

Red barn stain? I suppose there's an oil base blend. See if an outlet/store, near you, will wipe a sample onto your sample lumber. See if the coloring is appropriate. https://www.google.com/search?q=red+bard+stain&rlz 1PQHA_enUS574US586&oq=red+bard+stain&aqs=chrome..69i57j0l5.4199j0j7&sourceid=chrome&es_sm2&ie=UTF-8
Then top coat with a clear coat, if applicable?
Sonny
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On 2/21/2015 5:38 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

How about using RED colorant that is used in cement. Or having some clear to go over the stain with a squirt of so of red from the paint (make my color) machine.
Seems like you could add color to any paint or stain.
Martin
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Martin Eastburn wrote:

Ever see "The Red Violin?" Great movie.
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Don't know if you thought of this or not, but
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?176414-Tinting-Shellac-or-Lacquer-which-can-give-you-the-widest-array-of-colors
I spray shellac all the time and a little HLVP touch up gun from Harbor Freight does a very good job and is inexpensive.
Deb
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On Sunday, February 22, 2015 at 6:27:32 AM UTC-6, Dr. Deb wrote:

Thanks, Deb. Just what I'm looking for.
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On 2/21/2015 5:38 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

I don't think I have ever seen a red oil based stain premixed. I have however used red stains/milk paints that will let the grain show through. but having said that I have not seen many stains on pine that I like either....
These links go to what I have done with the red milk paint type stains.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/7199503670/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8288561015/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8168293446/
From General Finishes
https://generalfinishes.com/retail-products/water-base-milk-paints-glazes
FWIW these are water based but don't raise the grain as badly as regular water based products. AND all are sealed with an oil based gel varnish by Old Masters.
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Leon ...
Can these General milk paints be sprayed? Looked on their site and there was no info about spraying.
Larry
On Sunday, February 22, 2015 at 10:42:29 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

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I can't answer that question, but they do on with a brush with little effort.
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On Sunday, February 22, 2015 at 10:42:29 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

Pine needs to have a conditioner applied or it blotches badly. Conditioners are cheap and plentiful, and easy to apply.
One good example of an oil based premix:
http://www.myoldmasters.com/products-penetrating-stains.htm
Their "Crimson Fire" at the bottom of the color selects is pretty bright.

One should always seal stained wood with something. It has no abrasion resistance, little or nor moisture resistance, and no resistance to cleaners or solvents.
Robert
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RIGHT under my nose. I confess, I have never used an Old Masters stain. LOLL

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For a young'un I'd lean to paint, actually, as being more durable and easier to touch up if it gets dinged (altho that's more likely with a boy than a girl).
In any event, if you don't want to paint I'd suggest a dye like Transfast. You can get some pretty vivid colors that way, and the result still looks like wood (more or less - a color that's not brownish looks a bit unnatural).
At one time Minwax would "custom mix" stains in various bright colors (for use on electric guitars and similar things), you could get an almost paint-like color that way.
As someone else said, you can get a "rustic red" stain intended for barns, fences, and such like things.
John
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On 2/21/15 5:38 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

Not sure about the oil part, but I would suggest looking into dyes. You can get very, very bright red using dyes.
Here's a piece I did for a client in orange. http://goo.gl/zJYj1K
It's actually a bit more orange in person than the picture shows. I've seen some red dyes that are very bold and bright, almost like a paint, but with the wood grain showing through.
I'd suggest using a pre-stain conditioner on pine or it could get *very* splotchy. You may want more than one application of conditioner, as well. I did several tests on scraps of the same wood for this piece. Dye is much more penetrating than stain so testing is kind of critical.
--

-MIKE-

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If you want something that's kinda more paint than stain, while still being stain, Home Depot has a Behr deck stain that leaves the wood an almost opaque red. It holds up very well in deck usage, but I can't say if it would be appropriate for this application.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/BEHR-1-gal-Redwood-Oil-Latex-Stain- 00901/100184240
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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I've thinned colored oil based enamel with turpentine and used that as a stain on light wood. This works better on some species of wood than others. I got good results. You van put coats of clear varnish over this.
Joel
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I've thinned colored enamel with turpentine and stained light wood. This works better on some species than others. Then coat this with clear varnish.
Joel
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On 2/21/2015 6:38 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

Get some transtint RED and goto town. Either water based, or alcohol based.
Hope you are using maple, as I think it will work and look good on maple.
--
Jeff

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On 2/21/2015 6:38 PM, Gramps' shop wrote:

Lots of good options here. Remember that "customer satisfaction" is the goal. Let your granddaughter approve a sample before proceeding.
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