Through the wall AC install

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Hell, if you want to keep cool, excavate into the slope. I'm sure that several feet of that Texas dirt will keep much of the heat out.
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Good idea Upscale except it is about 2 inches of dirt then solid rock.
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We were just talking about the a/c'd shop again over lunch.
We both have zero regrets (except for the $ of course). We were wondering why we didn't bite the bullet and do this several years ago. It truly is a pleasure to walk into the shop on a 98 and 95 (temp and humidity) day like today. My kids claim I'm cheap, which might be the reason we waited so long. Finally applied the crowbar. I'd still go with a big window unit and a couple of box fans from Sams if I could get past the HOA.
That would have saved at least $1500, perhaps $1800, even counting in the cost of a new window. Our local Sears had a 2 ton GE window unit for around $550 around the end of June. The Borg had no-name brands about $75 lower. Haven't checked prices since then.
Roy

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I just went online and in about 1 hour I was able to obtain an EPA license that will allow me to buy/handle freon. I'm planning on building my split type system out of a window unit or possible out of my portable unit. Shouldn't be too hard. I think I just need to seperate the evaporator portion from the condensor/compressor section with some long tubing.
Roy wrote:

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User Example wrote:

If you cut the tubing do you have access to a vacuum pump to evacuate the system?
See:
http://www.rparts.com/Catalog/Tools_&_Equipment/vacuum_pumps.asp
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
  Click to see the full signature.
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Actually, I happen to have one of those.
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How about a recovery machine. ? Some how I have a feeling I would like to be there when you go to charge the system.
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O D wrote:

Because?
Dave
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My response should have been directed to user example. With and EPA licence he should know why.
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O D wrote:

Yea, I know what you were getting at. I hadn't figured that part out yet but I wasn't just going to vent to atmosphere.
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User Example wrote:

what exactly will you be venting if the system is empty to start with?
Dave
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It is not that he would be venting anything. But the EPA says that you MUST have a recovery machine anytime you work on a unit. They did not say that if you are installing a new unit you don't need it,or if the unit you are going to work on is empty you don't need it. They cover EVERY angle by saying you WILL have a recovery machine on hand. Not back at the shop or at the supply house. Just so some of you will know , the mechanic can be fined up to $25,000 for venting freon to the atmosphere . And if you see him and can prove it (either video ) you can claim some of that fine. So this is why the mechanic today is very careful . Not like the old days when we could blow out a condenser with R-12. Then it was only .75 a LB today maybe $20.00 LB ( dunno been retired for 4 yrs now ) And that is wholesale price. To you maybe $35-$40 LB. Not trying to show anyone up but our classes for the license were over 8 hrs and that is when they first came out. And that was for the "A"& "B"& "C" license.
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8 hours for a license? Wow, that's something else.
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O D wrote:

I'm glad I no longer work in the automotive a/c field! :) I'd buy freon 100 cases at a time--14oz cans for less than a buck. I could fill a system faster any day of the week than the machines that heated a 30# can. too many regs nowadays.
Dave
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He I agree with you. This EPA thing on freon is something else for this country. Third world countries can still make it and sell it i n new units but the good old usa can't. It was called the montreal protocol Today you must recover the refrigerant and treat it as hazardous waste, Then to be sent to a recycle who MUST clean it and certify that it meets the standard of new OR BURN it. If they were to clean you R12 and it was not contaminated by other refrigerant they would pay you about $2.00 LB. if it was contaminated they get to charge YOU about $5.00 a LB. So now you should have a recovery machine for all the types of gas. and clean bottles . because if the recycle finds just a smidgen of mixed gas you pay . Then the mechanic today is suppose to have a tag on every bottle of refrigerant with the exact amount still in the can. and records of where he used it, by the ounce. for the epa. Now this requires an electronic scale to weigh the bottles about $125.00 There are many a way for the cost to come back and bite the mechanic or company for disposal. Also company cannot pay the fine for a mechanic. Bummer huh? Damm doctor can leave a hunk of metal in you and his insurance pays . Go figure us little guys get stuck again
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O D wrote:

Well nevermind. I guess I won't be doing that plan after all. Some guy is selling new 2 Ton mini-splits on Ebay for $849. I offered him $750 for one and he bit. So in a week or so I should be chilling out in my garage, I hope. This one actually comes precharged with R22 so I just have to connect the lines I think. I'll post back how it does in my garage if anyone is interested.
And, to the guy in Austin considering a portable A/C. Well, mine is now for sale if you are interested! 12000 BTU for $350.
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gregj wrote:

Greg...
The absolute simplest/most effective/smartest solution to me would be to install a window and then get a window-mount AC unit. A window will never aesthetically hurt your garage's curb appeal, and should the AC unit die down the road, you have far more options... like don't replace it, or replace it with a new one that adjusts to fit the window size. Plus in the spring or fall you can yank the AC unit and either just open the window or get a small window fan to exchange comfortable outside air. The top part of the window will also be helpful because you'll know when it's time to go back in the house and eat (it gets dark. Plus you'll know if it snows, rains, or whatever.
This is not rocket science. Sawzall, window, trim saw, a few other odds and ends... and you're done.
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I am in the process of building a woodworking shop.
Location - Baton Rouge, LA - high humidity area
Two small 3' wide X 2' high insulated windows facing south very near the top of the walls.
Size will be 20' X 22' (440 sq. ft.) with 10' ceilings.
Walls will be 4" - drywall / R-13 batt / 3/4" fiber type blackboard / Hardie Plank.
Ceiling will be - drywall / R-49 batt / to open attic.
Attic will be well ventilated with (2) 14" turbines.
Roof will be shingled with Solar Board for roof decking.
Looking at 15,000/ 15,800 BTU cool only unit from Friedrich (only one I could find with a good reputation and USA made) EER 9.0, moisture removal 4.2 pints/hour, 290 CFM, 7.8 AMPS, cooling watts 1756.
Is this size unit going to be enough. I want cool, don't want short cycles & not have humidity removal . . .I am fearful of going to big and end up with cold and clamy . . .
Any suggestions appreciated . . . . . Steve
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