Let's say you have a long board that has a bow to it - nothing huge but
maybe 1" deflection over 8 feet on a 6" board. How would you remove that
bow? I'm thinking about it and wonder, because you don't have a straight
edge to use as as reference point, removing the bow with a bandsaw or
tablesaw seems terribly wasteful, but bending a 6" board doesn't seem
That's why you have the longbed jointer... :)
It's either straighten the board if you need the full length or use
shorter sections of it so the waste isn't as much. That's woodworking...
If, otoh, it was a 1x fascia board or something similar, and
construction, not "woodworking", it would be quite possible in many
circumstances to nail it in place on one end and spring it into
alignment as one worked one's way along the length. Much depends on the
Well, there's always the chalk line and bandsaw method for edges. Superior
to any tablesaw jig I've ever used at safely getting things in the ballpark.
The hand plane guy takes the convex part down to a snapped line, the jointer
guy takes the concave part, runs two ends then the entire. Or, if he's one
who thinks a long-bed jointer is magic, he might try to hack the whole thing
If you're talking the face of the board, which I didn't read, but others
did, there are three letters that cover getting a straight board - SOL. Set
it aside for short pieces. Yet another reason for sighting your lumber
prior to preparation. It keeps you from hacking up something straight for
small stuff and trying to use something bowed at full length.
Bending out a 1" deflection over eight feet on a 6" board is nothing.
You think the planks on a boat grew bowed? The necessary bending on
those is/can be measured in feet for a middle size boat. Now, if you
meant crooked rather than bowed, that's a different thing.
I think you mean "crook" rather than "bow", i.e. the curve is in the same
plane as the widest dimension of the board. What I do is temporarily
attach another board with a good straight edge to the crooked board,
so that the straight board can ride against the table saw fence. (A length
of plywood with the factory edge makes a good straight edge for this use)
Position the 2 boards and the saw fence so that the crooked edge can be
ripped off. Then remove the straight edge, flip the crooked board over
so the just-ripped edge can ride the fence, and rip off the other crooked
I don't jave a jointer, but even if I did I believe I would still use
this method for an 8 ft board that had 1" of crook to it.
Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
Yes, crook is what I meant - thank you. I can see how what you do would
work. Attaching a known quantity to the board for reference marks so that
you can run it through the bandsaw or tablesaw with minimal waste.
We pretty much knew from your description what you meant. Basics, if you're
interested in precise terminology, are bow, cup, twist and crook. Good
stuff at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm
if you're curious as to the nature of wood and why it does what it does.
With a tablesaw setup on a large board you're actually creating a larger,
more unwieldy board by jigging. Lot easier and safer to snap the line and
bandsaw for reference.
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