Please excuse the OT, as fencing isn't exactly woodworking...
It is time to replace my redwood privacy fencing as it has fallen over.
Around here (Nor Cal), they now use pressure treated (brown tone) DougFir
for the posts, which is fine with me as it is slightly cheaper than
ConHeart. But I am not at all happy about embedding wood directly in
concrete. I keep thinking of concrete as basically a sponge that retains
any moisture... and I prefer not to rebuild the dang fence again in this
Is this really a problem and have others found a remedy for it? I was
thinking of dipping the posts in something, perhaps fiberglass resin or even
hot tar before placement. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Depends on your budget.
The best, thus highest initial cost, would be to use Sonotubes, anchor
bolts, end post brackets and bolts.
Use the tubes as a concrete form and pour the concrete about 12" above
grade and the anchor bolts in place using the template provided.
Secure post bracket with anchor boots and bolt post to brackets.
All hardware should be galvanized.
Most expensive, but also most termite proof.
I'm with Lew on this and you wouldn't have to sink your sonotubes all
the way into the hole. You can just stick them down enough to be able
to have them give you a form for the above grade part. You'd still do
a monolithic pour and, if you dig your holes cleanly and your ground
is good, you won't have to worry about a crack line at grade.
If the hole is sloppy and you have to batter board the form, I'd put
in a few #4 or #5 rebar.
For sure, I would not bury the posts in concrete. The posts will rot.
We used to treat them with creosote but , if we stuck them in
concrete, they still rotted.
It sounds like you are advising to have the posts above ground setting on
piers. Seems that a slight wind would blow the whole thing over. I think
for stability you are going to want the posts in the ground at least 20-24
So these brackets would probably extend up the post a liberal amount? And
the pivot point would be between the post bracket and the pier ? Got a
suggestion on where to get those brackets? I'd love to see them, I have
built lots'a fences and probably will continue to do so and this bould come
in handy at times.
Absolutely, probably at least 8"-10" and be thru bolted to the post
with a couple of 3/8"-1/2" hex hd bolts and Esna Stop nuts (Aircraft
Haven't looked very hard, but if I was still back in Cleveland, I'd
head for my buddy's machine shop with a sketch and a 12 pack in hand.
Maybe you got a guy like that in your area, especially with all the
oil field shops in the area.
All you need is a machine shop with a shear and a press brake that
could handle say 10Ga material and hopefully a punch press for the
9/16" clearance thru holes.
Shear some blanks say 3"x15", punch some 9/16" clearance holes then
press brake to form a 90 degree angle ith 3"x12" legs.
Make say 100 pieces then head for the galvanizing shop and be patient.
With such a small load, you want to ride somebody elses coat tails and
share the cost, thus avoiding minimum charges.
These are used to hold DECKS from falling down. They are strong.
Wind blows on decks and lots of moving weight surging across the
top as 20 to 30 people move. My back deck was larger than this house.
I miss the house and neighborhood. But not the problems.
I couldn't find these on Google, so I sketched one up.
Dimensions are estimated from memory.
lot of folks who build fences would like something like this. I am
certainly not going to manufacture this item, but somebody could. It seems
to have a built in market. Just a thought.
THANK YOU Tom! I see now. Still I think I would be more comfortable with a
24" strap than the illustrated 12". However I do have the ever present
possibility of a hurricane every year. Fortunately none of mine that I have
built in the last 5 years blew down after the storm last September, many did
not do so well.
Your concept is good but the devil is in the details.
NONE of the Simpson post bases / column bases are designed / meant to
be used in free standing post configuration (ie a fence post or flag
Read the catalog notes.
A 4x4 post embedded in concrete in the ground has a decent "moment
capacity". To get a fence post connected to a "concrete chunk" via a
metal connector to perform the same as an embedded post requires a
bit of design; especially the fastener size and pattern.
Its not as simple as it appears ....... a moment capable connection;
wood to concrete via metal connector winds up being a pretty hefty
piece of hardware
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