Depends on which part of the breaker you're talking about. The terminal where
the branch circuit connects to the breaker is always a screw terminal, but the
connection of the breaker to the bus bar is definitely a stab connection.
I've had similar situations where I found something not working and
swore off using it ever again, but one guy finding two bad outlets isn't
exactly overwhelming evidence.
FWIW, I've gotten bad switches straight out of the box. I chalked it up
to a bad lot... I didn't swear off switches. :-)
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
Thanks for the information. This year in New Brunswick a few commercial
roofs did collapsed under the weight of snow and ice. I like to idea of
re-enforcing the trusses with wooden plates. While driving to the ski hills
I noticed that the Gambrel roof (like your) does not accumulate snow and ice
as much as the traditional roof design. That will the design that I will be
using for my shed.
Yes, that is a nice design, uses little material and it is easy to
build, particularly with the truss plates. I said they were "flimsy"
but they are very strong and will not spread vertically. They bend
easily horizontally but their is no pressure on them to bend once the
roof is on. I put the wooden plates on because mentally I couldn't
handle thinking about those little hunks of tin holding up my roof. I
doubt the wood did any more than give me piece of mind:-).
I gotta tell you again though, you really want bigger than 8x10 and you
might as well put on a second floor. The second floor is the only thing
that keeps the first floor semi-uncluttered. There is not much extra
cost, and it does not have to be built like a house, it's just for
storing junk, not car engines or pianos. More like deck chairs, a lawn
seeder you use once every 20 years, kids toys that you know will be
worth a fortune 25 years from now, tents you will never use again, that
kind of stuff. You will thank yourself for the rest of time.
I wondered why the baseball was getting bigger. Then it hit me.
3.12 "shed" roof (no gable, sloped only one way) not in snow country
works fine with standard shingles if the prevailing winds are not "up
the roof" and if you increase your overlap about 25%. DO NOT forget
the roofing felt under the shingles, and the drip edges. BluSeal self
stick membrane or ice sheild over the whole roof is never a bad idea
As far as code goes, in most places as long as there is no foundation
(ot is a "temporary" or "portable" building and under 100 sq feet no
code applies and no permit is required. Just make sure it is tied down
well enough to withstand the highest foreseeable wind gusts!!!
Nothing like watching your shed roll down the block in a wind storm!
My biggest concern after building just what you suggest was that I found out
that I lost a lot of overhead storage room, and a small shed fills up fast
enough to make it hard to get much in or out. I had a 10 x 14. I could
live with the greater pitch, or even have the two pitches like a barn to get
the extra overhead.
That seems really steep, unless you're in heavy snow country.
Shingles are fairly 'iffy' at _that_ low a slope. You're probably
looking at rolled roofing, with a need to seal seams -- or maybe metallic
(or Fiberglas) sheeting.
At, say, a 5x12 pitch shingles are "no problem".
Authoritative answer: "It depends". <grin>
Considered in isolation, that pitch is -not- unreasonable for either a
"saltbox", or true "shed" style roof. For conventional gable or hip
roof designs (and cousins thereof), it _will_ look tend to look 'squished'
or 'stepped on', if it's mimicking a conventional structure.
"Geography" also enters into the situation. What "looks normal" in one
territory (because it's what 'everybody' does _there_) will look terribly
out of place in a different locale. Snow vs. rain is a _big_ consideration,
also the degree of variability in storm (and storm winds) directions. So,
'look around' the territory and see what 'other folks' do. :)
A bigger question is what else will be in the field of view -- where
will people see it from, and what else will the see with/around it.
If it's going to be 'commonly seen' in the same view as the house, you
will likely want to mimic the house architecture.
I (almost) hate to say it, in _this_ group, but you may well want to
consider a metal storage shed. That'll get the low roof profile you are
looking for (which will help greatly with the 'more discrete' aspect,
and much lower maintenance. Incidentally, the fact that it's "pre-
finished" makes an amazing difference in the amount of time/effort to
project completion. :)
Aside: I was googling a few things related to writing this reply, and
came across "www.shedkitstore.com" The site is painfully slow to load,
and I know -nothing- about them; they have a substantial collection
of various kinds of shed kits, wood, vinyl and metal. In their
'best barn' line (wood) is an 'Elm' model, with about a 4:12 pitch.
In the 'arrow' models (metal), they've got some that do not look bad,
and that have an about 1:12 pitch.
Depends on the structure. _long_ ago, had one from Sears, no less, that had
close to 7' internal clearance on the high wall -- just under 6' at the back
wall. Door opening was only about 5'9", did have to duck stepping in.
Here's one that is minimum 6' at the walls, and is over 7-1/2' at the ridge-
I think you could easily draw that on paper and get a good idea of what it
would look like.
On another note, for a few dollars more per sheet you can get radiant
barrier decking over standard decking and that will keep you shed
considerably cooler in the summer months. Cheap and no more work.
Three things ...
I would avoid a metal shed. Rust and the inability to purchase oil based
paint in economical gallons makes it a bad idea in many areas of the USA
at least. I live in Pennsylvania and the state government in its
infinite wisdom has banned oil based paint sold by the gallon. Best
check that out before hand. Oil based spray cans or epoxy are still
legal but not very economical/practical.
8 x 10 is really small. Mine is 10 x 12 and with just a 42" lawn
tractor, 21" mower, trimmer, edger, and an assortment of garden tools
(including two wheel barrows) its stuffed to the gills. The pull behind
cart doesn't fit at all and sits outside at the mercy of the weather.
Gather up everything that will go in the shed and arrange it in the
yard. Allow a path to get yourself in to get at whatever is in the back
of the shed and then measure the needed floor space. You will be amazed
at how much room you really need.
That is like all the tin sheds. Also, I have a slighly bigger shed in
mybackyard with a very low pitch like that. The roofing on my shed is
some sort of corrugated stuff but much heavier than the typical galv
or poly type. It is like 4' x 6' sheets, the corrugation is maybe 3"
wide each and he stuff is about 1/4" thick. Kind of structural and
enclosure all in one. It might be fiberglass or cementious or
something. They have it at home depot.
There are some heavier, anodized metal sheets out there in a choice of
gauges and colors and profiles.They are much pricier than the regular
wavy corrugated fiberglass along with being more durable and handsome.
Aside from rain as an expressed design consideration, if other factors
allow, the OP might consider a translucent or transparent plastic
on one or both sides of the apex of his roof to allow permanent
A T-bar ridge of plastic "wood" would protect the joint there as would
some of the aluminum ridge material available across a range of
For plastic panels, Glassteel with a Tedlar coating has an exceptional
lifetime. It is available in at least two profiles, the shiplap
much more forgiving when it comes to rafter allignment.
I built one this fall that is slightly larger - 10 x 14. I had some
of the same concerns, especially since a smaller shed can end up
looking like a church if you use standard studs and such. I wanted it
to blend with the house as well as possible and here are a few things
- Used the shorter 86" studs instead of full length. This brought
the ridge line down about 6"
- Used the same roof slop as the house - 7:12 in our case. This
provided a lot of room for overhead lofts in each end and storage
(made shingling fun).
- The house has 2' overhang all around and I used 1' overhang.
- The lower eves of the house have box trim and I copied it.
- Paint scheme is the same.
Even with an 8" door header the shorter studs provide plenty of head
clearance for my 5'-11" height. Our 6'-4" son in law will have to
duck. Even with the shorter wall heights, the shed looks plenty tall
but it is attractive.
Building codes in most areas allow you to build a shed up to 100 square
feet without a building permit (check with your local building department).
It's easy to build a shed with 2x4 studs and plywood siding. Since plywood
sheets are usually 4' wide, this normally means a shed that is 8x12 (96
sq/ft), with 8' high walls. Note that the actual inside ceiling height is
typically a little lower as the plywood siding laps over the floor framing
or concrete slab to keep out wind, rain, and bugs.
I built mine with a 6/12 pitch. Lower pitches look kind of odd on a tall
shed, and you start having to worry about leaks below 4/12 or so. Anything
steeper than 6/12 is hard to walk on safely, making construction and
maintenance more difficult.
My shed is 8x12, with the 6/12 pitch, making it approximately 10' high at
the peak. If it was standing alone out in the open somewhere it may look
odd, but situated near our house and trees it looks fine. The eaves of our
house are higher than 10' and the ridges are upwards of 18', so the shed
size fits nicely.
Thanks all who responded.
I have a 3 car garage that I'd like to organize and if
I can get the wood and garden tools out, that
would help a lot. One of the stalls in the garage
is my workshop - so I'm not using the shed as
After I started this thread, the architect who
designed our house came by on a unannounced
visit. He suggested that I build a small retaining
wall (the property is slopped) of about 30 inches,
slab it with concrete and then build a 10x12. Of
course he would design it for me for $1200 or so.
That was funny, I thought!
I'm going to hold back a bit and take look
around as to where I could stick this shed
and not have it be so obtrusive to the property. The
property is narrow, long and slopped, which
forces the siting of the shed to specific areas.
On 2/20/2011 2:28 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Thats good, build the shed and you have two stalls for the workshop.
Park the car outside, and you have an ideal size workshop:-)
Yeah, my shed cost exactly $1200 when I built it, 25 years ago. I knew
the local lumber yards put sheds, and everything needed to build them on
sale every spring, so I drew everything up in the winter, and bought all
the material when it went on sale. Saved a ton of money.
I built both my sheds on 6x6 Wolmanized posts. My first shed was not on
level ground, so the front posts were short, the back posts were longer:-)
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