Sharpening guides or systems for carving tools?

[Kate]

I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides. I currently have about 20 Dockyard micro carving tools ranging from 1.5mm to

3mm in many different shapes. The manufacturer recommends a 20° angle. These tools are SOOOOOOOOO tiny that I cannot afford to muck them up by being inaccurate. Just a few wrong swipes will completely wipe a blade out. I love them, they hold an edge nicely and though I have run them on my leather strop a little I would like to be able to keep them as nice as when they arrived.

Dockyard recommended their own sharpening jig BUT I am unable to locate it online, even at Woodcraft... which is where the tools came from. Short of finding a phone number I don't know what else to do.

Eventually (hopefully sooner than later) I plan on getting more carving tools in larger sizes. Some good quality tools. I've been using some Chinky China stuff and they were great for getting my feet wet but now I'm ready to make an investment.

Will you guys and gals give me the benefit of your experience, please?

Here are a couple of things I am considering.

?familyid=224&productid=03B30However, the shafts on the micro tools are round. Alignment may be an issue.

and this is the only thing I can come up with for my tools that are not flat

suggestions?

Thanks in advance :)

[charlieb]

Notoce that the SlipStrop POLISHES. I bought one thinking it was a molded synthetic fine stone. It ain't. It's wood - and a soft wood at that.

The Precision Sharpening System does flat bevels, which is half of what's needed for flat, single bevel, chisels and carving tools - you still need a flat and polished back. This one won't do curved bevels and can't get into the inside.

The Veritas sharpening guide is the older of the two Veritas sharpening guides - and the more difficult to set up. Made for flat tools though you could probably use a triangular file to make a groove in it to hold round things. The groove would have to be sqaure to the ends or you'll get a skewed bevel. Doesn't do the inside of curved or V carving tools though.

I suspect that what you'll end up with is some japanese water stone "slips? - or synthetic stone versions.

charlieb

[Rita and Neil Ward]

Kate,

There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are woodcarvers: each has there on method.

To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek honing compound.

The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening

Mac Proffit?s method:

Lora Irish's web site:

The Carvers? Companion web site:

Neil Kate,

There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are woodcarvers: each has there on method.

To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek honing compound.

The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening

Mac Proffit?s method:

Lora Irish's web site:

The Carvers? Companion web site:

Neil

[George]

SNIP

Their own method indeed. With the use of the tool as its own jig is the one most employ. Means nothing coarser than a Washita or fine India is ever used, because coarser takes longer to get the gross marks out by hand than just honing fine to begin with.

Fortunately carving is not done by placing the tool in a jig at a fixed position like a plane or shave. Means there's a _LOT_ of leeway in angles and bevels. Isn't the numbers that make an edge sharp or a carver competent, either. Makes the pursuit of the right number a waste of time and money in my opinion.

But if you must have it, make your basswood ramps at the proper angles and slide them and the tool on your oiled stone. Or straddle the stone with the ramp if you're using water.

[crane763]

e.

at

Any suggestions?

[J T]

Wed, Jan 9, 2008, 9:15pm (EST-1) [e-mail] (Kate) doth wonder: I'm looking for reviews or recommendations on sharpening guides.

My theory on sharpening guides is, just use them on things like plane irons, that will be staying at the same angle.

Things like turning tools, carving tools, only need to be close as reasonable, because every time you make a cut the angle of the tool to wood is not going to be exactly the same. For my lathe tools I prefer my small benchtop belt sander. I got el cheapo HF tools, because I figured I'd practice with those, and if I screwed them up, no prob, and I'd get quality tools later. Well, still haven't worn the HF tools out yet, so still using them, with no prob. One of these tays tho I'll get around to putting longer handles on them. Haven't sharpened my carbing chisels yet, but probably will be doing them with Scarey Sharp, no guide, rather than the belt sander. Or, maybe the belt sander, depends on how the wind is blowing that day, what the humidity is, temperature, sunny or cloudy, or just whether I feel like it or not. So far, my theory is working out quite well for me. Oh yeah, if I ever replace my lathe tools, it'll be with homemade versions. Now, if I can just get a place to set up a forge.

JOAT

10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President

- Bumper Sticker I quite agree.

[Kate]

Hi Charlie! How ya doin?

Thanks for the input. Believe it or not, I read enough about the slip strop that I knew it was - just a strop. BUT, I'm hoping it will be of use with the polishing of those little curved edges. I use a flat one now but it doesn't do anything for the other shapes.

So... what do I use for thos wee little inside edges and the round and V groove ?

K.

The Precision Sharpening System does flat bevels, which is half of what's needed for flat, single bevel, chisels and carving tools - you still need a flat and polished back. This one won't do curved bevels and can't get into the inside.

The Veritas sharpening guide is the older of the two Veritas sharpening guides - and the more difficult to set up. Made for flat tools though you could probably use a triangular file to make a groove in it to hold round things. The groove would have to be sqaure to the ends or you'll get a skewed bevel. Doesn't do the inside of curved or V carving tools though.

I suspect that what you'll end up with is some japanese water stone "slips? - or synthetic stone versions.

charlieb

[Kate]

Thanks Larry... I sure will!

How do you like them? I just love mine, they are SO little and precise.

What are you carving?

Kate

[Kate]

"Rita and Neil Ward" wrote There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are woodcarvers: each has there own method.

To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek honing compound.

I have a little bitty white Arkansas stone that I have been using. Trouble is the angled and rounded edges. I'm doing ok with the straight edges I just hate the thought of messing the different shaped ones up.

Thanks for the links, I'll go do some more homework. I'm planning on getting a couple of the Chris Pye books, the tools and sharpening book is on my list

Kate

The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening

Mac Proffit?s method:

Lora Irish's web site:

The Carvers? Companion web site:

Neil Kate,

There are as many ways to sharpen carving tools, as there are woodcarvers: each has there on method.

To sharpen my small carving tools I use a sharpening stone when the cutting edge becomes rounded from stropping, damaged, or needs to be reshaped, followed by honing. I use the Flexcut Slipstrop with Tormek honing compound.

The following web sites will provide more info on sharpening

Mac Proffit?s method:

Lora Irish's web site:

The Carvers? Companion web site:

Neil

[Kate]

"George" wrote

SNIP

Their own method indeed. With the use of the tool as its own jig is the one most employ.

***Ok, this is pretty much what I've been doing. However it seems that my tools are sharp, just not as sharp as I would like them to be.

Means nothing coarser than a Washita or fine India is ever used, because coarser takes longer to get the gross marks out by hand than just honing fine to begin with.

*** I RARELY take one to a stone. The stone I have is a very fine white arkansas oil stone. I'm just afraid I'll round the edges orget the angles all buggered up.

Fortunately carving is not done by placing the tool in a jig at a fixed position like a plane or shave. Means there's a _LOT_ of leeway in angles and bevels. Isn't the numbers that make an edge sharp or a carver competent, either. Makes the pursuit of the right number a waste of time and money in my opinion.

*** ok, that kind of eases the stress out of it. In most cases I wouldn't care but these micro tools have such a micro margin for error I'm hoping to keep them good for as long as I can.

But if you must have it, make your basswood ramps at the proper angles and slide them and the tool on your oiled stone. Or straddle the stone with the ramp if you're using water.

*** Thanks! I never thought of making a wooden ramp!

Kate

[Kate]

My theory on sharpening guides is, just use them on things like plane irons, that will be staying at the same angle.

Things like turning tools, carving tools, only need to be close as reasonable, because every time you make a cut the angle of the tool to wood is not going to be exactly the same. For my lathe tools I prefer my small benchtop belt sander. I got el cheapo HF tools, because I figured I'd practice with those, and if I screwed them up, no prob, and I'd get quality tools later.

*** That's where I am now. I have learned a LOT by using the HF tools. Most - no - ALL of them had to have a lot of reshaping to even be useful. Even still they never were satisfactory. Now that I'm ready to invest in some better tools I want to do the best that I can by the edges so I don't bugger them up.

Well, still haven't worn the HF tools out yet, so still using them, with no prob. One of these days tho I'll get around to putting longer handles on them. Haven't sharpened my carving chisels yet, but probably will be doing them with Scarey Sharp, no guide, rather than the belt sander.

*** Scarey Sharp?

Or, maybe the belt sander, depends on how the wind is blowing that day, what the humidity is, temperature, sunny or cloudy, or just whether I feel like it or not. So far, my theory is working out quite well for me. Oh yeah, if I ever replace my lathe tools, it'll be with homemade versions. Now, if I can just get a place to set up a forge.

*** JT - you crack me up. ;¬Þ Thanks for the advice and the giggle. Oh, put the forge up behind the shop. What the heck, you can shoe horses on the side.

Kate

JOAT

10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President

- Bumper Sticker I quite agree.

[Lee Michaels]

"Kate" wrote

That should be scary sharp.

It is a method of sharpening that uses a progessive series of different grits of sandpaper on a very flat surface, usually glass.

It is a common enough, I am sure therre is lots of info around on it, either on the web or in the wreck archives.

[mjmwallace]

Kate,

While not a system, this book might help?

Butz "Sharpening carving tools"

Here's the URL to Amazon:

Wallace

[Rita and Neil Ward]

The Slipstrop and the gold honing compound should keep your angled and rounded edges sharp. Just as effective is to use your v and gouge tools to cut grooves in softwood creating a strop to hone the bevel of the matching v tool or gouge. Use a leather shoestring with honing compound to hone the inside bevel of your micro tools.

Another book to consider on sharpening is ?The Complete Guide to Sharpening? by Leonard Lee.

Neil

[Kate]

The Slipstrop and the gold honing compound should keep your angled and rounded edges sharp. Just as effective is to use your v and gouge tools to cut grooves in softwood creating a strop to hone the bevel of the matching v tool or gouge. Use a leather shoestring with honing compound to hone the inside bevel of your micro tools.

** Oh HEY! That's a good idea! Thanks :)

Another book to consider on sharpening is ?The Complete Guide to Sharpening? by Leonard Lee.

Neil

[Kate]

Believe it or not... that's one of the books in my cart on Amazon :) Thanks!

While not a system, this book might help?

Butz "Sharpening carving tools"

Here's the URL to Amazon:

Wallace

[J T]

Thanks for the advice and the giggle. Oh, put the forge up behind the shop. What the heck, you can shoe horses on the side.

Some of the pros sharpen with belt sanders.

Forge behind the shop? Not lately. And I take it you have never shoed a horse. I have helped, and it is NOT something I care repeat. So yuo don't know what Scarey Sharp is? Well for the above, I'm not gonna tell you. Hehehehe But I'm sure someone else will. If you'd made a proper sacrifice or two for the Woodworking Gods I woulda told you. Heathen.

JOAT

10 Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President

- Bumper Sticker I quite agree.

[J T]

Thu, Jan 10, 2008, 10:56am leemichaels*nadaspam*@comcast.net (Lee=A0Michaels) doth sayeth: That should be scary sharp. It is a method of sharpening that uses a progessive series of different grits of sandpaper on a very flat surface, usually glass. It is a common enough, I am sure therre is lots of info around on it, either on the web or in the wreck archives.

If you're gonna get picky about the spelling, I'm gonna get picky about the capitalization - it is Scary Sharp. Actually Scary Sharp (TM). While you were at it you should have given the URL too, so she could have accurate info.

Out Of 10 Terrorists Prefer Hillary For President

- Bumper Sticker I quite agree.

[Bill]

At the risk of being repetative, I've re-posted a response to a query in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking below:

I have a set of six of the Dockyard micro tools and use some of them quite often.

I initially sharpened them on a fine oil stone. It's just a matter of being careful to maintain the proper angle (15-20 degrees). I have an advantage of being near-sighted, so I can look very closely at the edge while I'm sharpening : ). Then stropping on a leather strop occasionally.

Over the years, I have managed to drop and break most of my stones, so I've replaced them with a diamond hone, and I love it for setting the initial edge.

Now I have a home made rig for maintaining the edge of my tools. It consists of a piece of oak about 14 inches long and 2 inches wide, with a handle carved on one end. I rounded one end for stropping the inside of larger gouges and stretched an old leather belt around it while wet (inside of small goughes anf v tools can be run alonf the edge of the belt). When the leather dried, it shrank and tightened up. On the other side, I glued a piece of plexiglass on the stick to which is spray glued a piece of 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper. This works very well for touching up the edges of small tools. The best stropping compound that I have found is the Flexcut Gold compound.

It's not necessary to maintain an exact 20 degree edge, just a flat one. The Dockyard tools hold a pretty good edge and I prefer an angle a little flatter than 20 degrees. As mentioned above, between 15 and

20 degrees is fine.

See: Kate Sharpening post in alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking for:

I've attached a couple of pictures to help explain this - you can see that the sandpaper is getting pretty chewed up and will be replaced soon.

I've also attached a picture of some of my carving tools and accessories. As you can see, a tackle box makes a great tool holder. Some of the things that come in handy are small files, dental picks and a toothbrush for cleaning away small chips.

Bill

[Kate]

Some of the pros sharpen with belt sanders.

** if I used a belt sander on these little guys, they would be gone in the blink of an eye. and you KNOW I'm about as far from being a pro as the get ;¬)

Forge behind the shop? Not lately. And I take it you have never shoed a horse.

**shod... nop, have never shod a horse. Grew up withhorses under my arse, held the twitch while my mom put shoes on them but never did it mysel. Never wanted to either.

I have helped, and it is NOT something I care repeat. So yuo don't know what Scarey Sharp is? Well for the above, I'm not gonna tell you. Hehehehe But I'm sure someone else will. If you'd made a proper sacrifice or two for the Woodworking Gods I woulda told you. Heathen.

**But you DID you DID, in the other post. Funny as hell too. I read a little of it. Will sit and read it all when I get some time this evening. Thanks JT

And, the appropriate sacrifice would be_______ ?

Kate