Router depth gauge

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I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base plate of the router.
Is it the same process but standing it on the table surface and lifting/lowering the router till the tip of the blade touches ruler?
I'm talking about the trend depth gauge.
Thanks
--
Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite



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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote: > I was pondering whether to buy one of these,but how does it work on a > router table?when the depth is normally set by standing it on the base > plate of the router.
If you have a 6" dial caliper, why bother?
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

How does that work? I do have a digital caliper thats spot on accurate.
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Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> How does that work? I do have a digital caliper thats spot on accurate.
Good use for scrap.
Make a cut, measure it, adjust as required.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

I see, I'd rather adjust the router in one go rather than...cut,measure,adjust,cut measure,adjust.
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Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> > I see, I'd rather adjust the router in one go rather > than...cut,measure,adjust,cut measure,adjust. >
What ever floats your boat.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

No offence like.
I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments of half inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the middle and 1/16th steps at the other end, marked on the wood. Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the router bit in question and adjust the height.
:-)
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Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> No offence like. > > I've had a think and all it takes is a bit of wood with increments of half > inch steps at one end, increments of 1/8th steps in the middle and 1/16th > steps at the other end, marked on the wood. > Position the wood against the fence and move the fence near to the router > bit in question and adjust the height.
And then comes the test cut, usually on a piece of scrap.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

True,but if the increments are a fine line and are accurate in spacing,only one test cut is needed to verify its accuracy without having to have it niggling the head in future cutting. :-)
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Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




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Man, that's brilliant! We could call it a ruler!

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CW wrote:

We could :-P but the difference is I have difficulty in concentrating on small increments on a ruler basically because its silver in colour with black segements whereas a piece of wood is whitish background plus I'm segregating the segements of a ruler.
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...so, you're suggesting a ruler made of ... wood?
Hmmm. I wonder if there's a patent on that. Have to check.
:-)
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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

in theory, you can do that. just calibrate the plunge bars and the bit landing before you start....
in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
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With an easyly made fixture for the indicator, it would be a matter of seconds to set up. It would also be portable.

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CW wrote:

yeh. I have several such fixtures... as often as not I'll make a one-off for a given operation. mostly I make 'em quick and dirty and reuse the parts I don't pitch when it's done. some have proven more portable than others. probably something like Ed Bennett's device would be most portable, but I've never been able to justify the cash outlay for one.
don't get me wrong- indicators are great tools for machinery setup. but for general application in adjusting a router they are a bit fussy and overkill. I use one sometimes for adjusting the router table fence, especially in situations where I need to make numerous small adjustments including being able to come back to zero between non-zero settings. there the indicator works a treat.
for adjusting a router for handheld use it seems like a pain, though.
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I posted a couple of photos of a homebrew height gauge over on the binaries group. It took three tries to get both photos to post, sorry.
Regards, Ed

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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (in snipped-for-privacy@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com) said:
| in practise, you might be able to rig something up with a dial | indicator, but leaving it set up all of the time on the router while | running seems like a bad idea; dust and vibration and all that, and | setup and takedown time is a bit much for each cut.
It's easy with a 1-2-3 block and calipers or depth gauge. I've posted a pair of photos to ABPW showing the fastest/easiest method I've found.
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto
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I have one of these and don't like it. It is very difficult to read.
For my router I use a set of brass bars of differing heights. For me it is more accurate to feel when the tip of the bit is at the top of a half inch brass bar than checking the ruler for a half inch.
I also use my combination square the same way the trend gauge is supposed to be used.

Yes
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I use the brass key stock too and find it works well. But I also found that a set of allen wrenches works and provides a wide range of sizes, by 32nds and 64ths.
--
********
Bill Pounds
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I'm thinkin' UK where all routers are plungers? See poorman's (very precise) depth gage at the
http://patwarner.com/images/6182_6.jpg link. Notwithstanding its accuracy, all first cuts are essentially guess cuts. You may think you know where the cutter will cut but measuring the work is the gold standard.
Now the question is how accurate can you make that change of depth of cut to get your target depth. Plungers can hit that on the money with a feeler gage, drill bit shank or whatever has been ground to spec.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers) _____________________________________________________ The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

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