Rough lumber (how to?)

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1. Surface a surface 2. surface an edge 3. rip to width 4. plane to thickness

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What if the better edge to joint places the jointed face away from the fence? How do you know what side to face joint until you've seen them.
Face joint, thickness plane, then do edges... Now you can always run the preferred edge over the cutter in the best direction
Barry
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Yes right direction but I would opt for an 8" jointer minimum. Anything less is really just good for edging (IMHO).
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wrote:

Not to mention that most 8 inchers have longer tables. This makes them even better edgers in many cases.
Barry
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1. ) Crosscut to approximate length 1A.) If necessary - Rip rough board to a width that fits on the jointer. Band saws are great for this. No band saw? Use a circular, jig, or hand saw. Don't rip cupped or crooked boards on a table saw! 2.) Face joint face #1. 3.) Plane to thickness. 4.) Joint edge #1. 5.) Rip to finished width. 5A.) If necessary, clean up saw rip with a VERY LIGHT, slow jointer pass, or hand plane (better!) 6.) Trim to finished length.
Sometimes, I'll rout edges before step 6, if the bit I'm using has a tendency to snipe.
Barry
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Your lumber yard will be a good resource for that- and I suspect you'll save a whole pile of money, too.

I'd be surprised if 12" widths are all they have... my suppler has a whole range of random widths, anywhere from 3" to 16". Many of the planks are surfaced on both faces, and you can rip them to whatever width you want right off the bat. If that's the case, your jointer will work just fine.

Definately. Just for fun, once you become comfortable with calculating bf, go back to the Borg, and see what their lumber comes out to when you price it per board foot,

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