What if the better edge to joint places the jointed face away from the
fence? How do you know what side to face joint until you've seen
Face joint, thickness plane, then do edges... Now you can always run
the preferred edge over the cutter in the best direction
1. ) Crosscut to approximate length
1A.) If necessary - Rip rough board to a width that fits on the
jointer. Band saws are great for this. No band saw? Use a circular,
jig, or hand saw. Don't rip cupped or crooked boards on a table saw!
2.) Face joint face #1.
3.) Plane to thickness.
4.) Joint edge #1.
5.) Rip to finished width.
5A.) If necessary, clean up saw rip with a VERY LIGHT, slow jointer
pass, or hand plane (better!)
6.) Trim to finished length.
Sometimes, I'll rout edges before step 6, if the bit I'm using has a
tendency to snipe.
Your lumber yard will be a good resource for that- and I suspect
you'll save a whole pile of money, too.
I'd be surprised if 12" widths are all they have... my suppler has a
whole range of random widths, anywhere from 3" to 16". Many of the
planks are surfaced on both faces, and you can rip them to whatever
width you want right off the bat. If that's the case, your jointer
will work just fine.
Definately. Just for fun, once you become comfortable with
calculating bf, go back to the Borg, and see what their lumber comes
out to when you price it per board foot,
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