Exactly my point Larry. Which meant that a truly straight edge was never
possible on a consistent basis. And sometimes the available wood in the
field didn't have a factory edge since it was left over from something else,
so there isn't a "reference edge" to correct the guide to.
Another great tip!
One thing this conference has taught me quickly - be bold with your
imagination, drills, saws, and hand tools - build it, modify it, or tear it
to pieces to get what you really need.
Check the saw guide from Penn State Industries. I think you can get
it from Amazon also. Its an angle aluminum thing with a carriage
that you clamp/screw to your saw. It runs on roller bearings. Looks
Chris Richmond | I don't speak for Intel & vise versa
For most woodworking purposes the factory edge of a piece of plywood is straight
enough. Take a look at this jig, which is simple to make:
Buffalo, NY - USA
Years ago I had a metal shop make some out of 10 gauge stainless. They are
about 4 inches wide with a half inch bent up on one edge in a L shape. I
run the tools along the bent up edge. It also works great for picking them
up. I bought a 2, 4, 6 and 8 footer. They have had a lot of use and work
great. If I did it again I would skip the 6 footer.
A couple of good responses to this already, but I will give and answer
that sounds smart-assed, but is really serious: How straight, and how
much are you willing to pay?
Straight-edges for 8-ft lengths can vary from an mdf shelf from the
BORG to a machinists straightedge, with tolerance of .0005"per foot,
for about $500, and I'm sure you can go up from there.
I seldom need anything straighter than the edge of a sheet of ply or
mdf shelf in an 8' length. And I don't consider it an heirloom tool
for future generations! <g>
Make the obvious change in the return address to reply by email.
I bought the same saw guide at the BORG and had the same problem you
did with the bowing in the middle. I liked the idea of the sawboard,
so I combined the 2.
I took a nice wide 8'+ piece of MDF (3/4" stock) and screwed the
Johnson guide to it. It's straight now and won't be going anywhere.
If I'm cutting a lot of pieces for a shelf or something, instead of
using my ruler or combo square to set up the saw guide, I cut 3 scrap
pieces of wood to the appropriate length. Clamp them to the board you
want to cut (bottom, middle and top), butt the sawguide against these
pieces, clamp and cut.
Perfect results everytime.
Chuck, for many cuts it worthwhile to make a saw board wider
than the shelf or piece you are cutting with a full length
cleat on the bottom side. Hook the cleat over the end of the
panel, clamp the sawboard in place and cut.
saw space =============================================================== width of cut piece =====
I've cut over 50 pieces with the 17.25 inch one I made out
of particle board and it's still going strong.
Here's the original idea, one of the best woodworking ideas
I've found on the web
Add a cleat to the bottom and it's good enough to use as a
production cutting tool. No measuring and only one thing to
clamp to your sheet goods.
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