Recommendation for Resaw blade for MM16

Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.
Robert
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I asked the same question of the owner at R&D Bandsaw (Tufftooth)just last weekend...
The blade you are thinking of seems pretty close to the following link. So I guess it's a good choice. http://www.tufftooth.com/silicon-new.html
The Bandsaw I use is the 1433FX - Industrial http://www.kingcanada.com/Products.htm?CD 4&IDX
So you can judge the similarity - I have the riser block and use a 105" blade.
All his bandsaw advice has panned out so far.
FWIW
Big Rob wrote:

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Will
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I also own the mm16. There was quite a discussion on this at the yahoo minimax group. Consensus there was the lenox or woodslicer. The lenox I believe was spendier but gave better results. I don't use either. I use Olsen and viking. I prefer Viking. Consensus also said to not use thin kerf blades for making veneer. I personally haven't had a problem with the thin vs fat kerf for veneer slicing. I think it's all a matter of how your technique is and how well your machine is tuned. JMHOYMMV. SH
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Slowhand wrote:

I'll have to check out the yahoo MM group. I remember the MM guys mentioning something about a MM users group.....
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They're kind of a chatty group. It's a good reference though. I downloaded a users manual for the mm16 which is useful. I highly recommend the manual as the one that comes with the machine is not real useful. SH

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On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:21:07 -0700, Big Rob wrote

I ordered a 1" 4tpi Timberwolf for my mm16. Basically it sucked for 10" white oak. I have the Olson that came with the saw still to try but I may splurge on the woodslicer or lennox when I have more resawing to do.
-Bruce
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Big Rob wrote:

When I got my bandsaw (LT16SEC), I thought that you needed a wide blade for resawing. Since this saw would take a 1 1/4" blade I got one. What a PITA. Ever uncoiled a 130" 1 1/4" blade? Never did try to recoil it. Was a PITA to get on the bandsaw and tensioning it wasn't fun either. That much blade in the cut means more friction. Wider ain't always better, despite that car ad.
Then I sat in on a demonstration by Michael Fortune, a Canadian furntiure maker / teacher who does a lot of laminated pieces that involve lots of resawing. "Don't spend a lot of money on one blade. Get 5, 1/2". 3 TPI, hook toothed blades for about the same price as one "good blade" When a blade starts getting dull change it. When you get down to 2 new blades order 5 more. Sharp is what's important, not price."
And it doesn't hurt to having the saw set up well, proper tension, good guides set right AND a fence that can be set to the blade's drift/lead angle.
(when the Timberwolf blades I've got starts getting dull . . .)
charlie b
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