Recommendation for Resaw blade for MM16

[Big Rob]

Anyone have a recommendation for a resaw blade for a MM16? I'm considering a 3/4" 3 tpi bi-metal blade from Lenox. The first project will be cutting 1/8-1/4" veneer off of 12" wide figured maple.

Robert

[Will]

I asked the same question of the owner at R&D Bandsaw (Tufftooth)just last weekend...

The blade you are thinking of seems pretty close to the following link. So I guess it's a good choice.

Bandsaw I use is the 1433FX - Industrial you can judge the similarity - I have the riser block and use a 105" blade.

All his bandsaw advice has panned out so far.

FWIW

Big Rob wrote:

[Slowhand]

I also own the mm16. There was quite a discussion on this at the yahoo minimax group. Consensus there was the lenox or woodslicer. The lenox I believe was spendier but gave better results. I don't use either. I use Olsen and viking. I prefer Viking. Consensus also said to not use thin kerf blades for making veneer. I personally haven't had a problem with the thin vs fat kerf for veneer slicing. I think it's all a matter of how your technique is and how well your machine is tuned. JMHOYMMV. SH

[Big Rob]

I'll have to check out the yahoo MM group. I remember the MM guys mentioning something about a MM users group.....

[Slowhand]

They're kind of a chatty group. It's a good reference though. I downloaded a users manual for the mm16 which is useful. I highly recommend the manual as the one that comes with the machine is not real useful. SH

>

[Bruce]

On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:21:07 -0700, Big Rob wrote (in article ):

I ordered a 1" 4tpi Timberwolf for my mm16. Basically it sucked for 10" white oak. I have the Olson that came with the saw still to try but I may splurge on the woodslicer or lennox when I have more resawing to do.

-Bruce

[charlie b]

When I got my bandsaw (LT16SEC), I thought that you needed a wide blade for resawing. Since this saw would take a 1 1/4" blade I got one. What a PITA. Ever uncoiled a 130" 1 1/4" blade? Never did try to recoil it. Was a PITA to get on the bandsaw and tensioning it wasn't fun either. That much blade in the cut means more friction. Wider ain't always better, despite that car ad.

Then I sat in on a demonstration by Michael Fortune, a Canadian furntiure maker / teacher who does a lot of laminated pieces that involve lots of resawing. "Don't spend a lot of money on one blade. Get 5, 1/2". 3 TPI, hook toothed blades for about the same price as one "good blade" When a blade starts getting dull change it. When you get down to 2 new blades order 5 more. Sharp is what's important, not price."

And it doesn't hurt to having the saw set up well, proper tension, good guides set right AND a fence that can be set to the blade's drift/lead angle.

(when the Timberwolf blades I've got starts getting dull . . .)

charlie b