I'll second (or 8th?) that. You can get a full twist drill set for 40-55. The
titanium looks nice, but doesn't really do anything for you. The reason is
that they don't come really sharp. Yes, they will drill holes, but so much
better after using the Drill Doctor. Once they are sharpened, the thin coating
is gone from the tip. Now, if you spent $220 for a full set, they'd not only
be tougher metal but would come sharp. For wood, however, the cheaper set has
lasted for years.
I went looking at grinder prices..Lowes Delta $129 nice one...but I don't
want to spend that kind of money...so off to HF I went and they had a combo
unit 8" wet and 6"dry grinder for $60 bucks...sold got it home and pluged it
in..turns on and the checkout lady threw in the extended warranty 15 months
for free $6 buck saving their...so I"m happy for now...I've got some oil
stones for my chisels and a guide for them also...I"ve sharpened sanding
files (made a chisel on one end of it) on the grinding wheel where I use to
work for trimming edge banding after it came thru the machine...it worked
nice...so I'll have to teach myself the drill
angles...practice..practice..and do it some more..........
I suppose you bought this yellow one?
I think that should be a good economical purchase, everything else with
a major name brand is made in China anyway. Good going.
But now, in order to sharpen bits easily you need a drill bit sharpening jig
that will work with the smaller faster wheel. It is like this one in the link
though I don't think I would get the Sears one,
http://www.sears.com/ / tools / search: 00925292000
(for the idea of what they look like)
General makes one that might be better and you could search:
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Jig mounted, it holds the bit tip against the flat side of the wheel while
you turn it manualy, though you might need a finer grit wheel.
It's good to WOMEN into mechanics and woodworking, I always appreciate
that... hope you keep to it!
Tina - most likely you can master the simple technique of sharpening a bit
with a little instruction and save yourself the cash for stuff like jigs,
etc. that you really don't need.
Try this... Take a nice new bit - maybe a 1/4 or somewhat larger.
Something that is big enough to see well but it need not be a monster bit.
Hold it in front of your grinding wheel - with the grinder shut off. Hold
it so that the drill bit is in this sort of orientation... / In other
words, it will point right and the back side should be lower than the point.
Lay the point of the bit onto the grinder wheel and look at the contact
point. You'll see that there is a definite contact surface that starts at
the land of the bit. Make the bit lay flat on that contact area. Now, by
simply raising your rear hand, observe how the bit remains in full contact
with the grinder, but you are moving the contact surface toward the very
point of the drill. Do this a few times, and observe that all you are doing
is raising the rear of the bit. Develop a little muscle memory in this
process. That action will sharpen one side of the bit. To sharpen the
other side, reverse and repeat. Most people try to emulate a pencil
sharpener, and that simply will not work. You are not trying to make a
pencil point, you are sharpening two cutting edges on the end of the bit.
It's a lot easier to do than it is to explain. Again - before you buy
anything, do yourself the favor of going to a machine shop and ask the
machinist to show you how to do it. You'll be surprised at how easy it is
Develop the knack for sharpening the bits on the grinder and there's no need
to throw money away on a Drill DR. Find a local machine shop in your area
and stop in and ask the machinist to show you how to sharpen a drill bit on
a belt sander. You'll never be at a loss for a sharp bit again.
Exactly what I said, except for using a belt sander. Using a belt sander to
sharpen drill bits seems odd. A belt can not be as accurate as a stone
wheeled grinder. I've worked in and around many machine shops and never met
a good machinist that sharpens bits on a belt.
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 07:52:47 -0800, the inscrutable "Teamcasa"
I haven't been in a machine shop for some time now, but when I visited
them weekly (in a past life as a wrench), none had belt sanders, at
least not that I can remember. Maybe that's why you never met one,
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
http://www.diversify.com Tagline-based T-shirts!
It'd be my bad guys. Should not have said belt sander. Should have said
Stationary Belt Sander. Don't know about the machine shops you've been in
but like I said the guy who showed me how to sharpen drill bits showed me on
a Stationary Belt Sander. Come to think of it, I've seen them in other
machine shops as well. Maybe Larry just never noticed them in the shops he
Hand sharpening a drill bit takes a lot of skill and is also a bit of an
art. The drill doctor (at least my 500 model did) comes with clear
written instructions, and a video. The printed instructions were so
clear, I didn't even take the video out of the shrink wrap.
Incidently, the same company that designed the drill Dr. also sells
professional all metal versions, about $1000 and $3000, with various
attachments. We use the lower end one where I work.
First time in a long time I've disagreed with Mike-
skip the drill doc. Learn to do it free hand. Start with a bigger
bit, get a gage, play with it some. It is not hard to learn. the
real little bits, I just toss those (or they break).
(Hey Mike, want me to show you how to sharpen them? Hahaha....)
On 16 Mar 2005 07:04:06 -0800, email@example.com wrote:
Some can do it well, and they may also sharpen chisels without a guide. IMO,
"learning" how to do it is only half the issue. For bits smaller than 1/4, it
gets more difficult, and there the Drill Doctor does a nice job. It's also
much faster (at least for me) when you have many to sharpen.
I've never been able to sharpen a chisel well without some kind of guide,
although I can cut dovetails with a saw pretty much by eye. I still remember
one machine shop where one old guy did all the sharpening, by eye and faster
and better than anybody else. He tried teaching me, but I never made it.
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 22:11:23 -0500, Dan Valleskey <valleskey at comcast dot
I can get smaller than 1/4 but not an awful lot smaller. Nothing below an
1/8th, for sure. But - those bits are so cheap, you just buy new ones.
They aren't even worth the time on a Drill DR, let alone the cost of a Drill
Drill bit sharpening is a skill that is easily learned.
At the grinder begin at the trailing edge of the bevel cut holding the bit
at the same angle to the grinding wheel as the bit was original ground at.
Rotate the bit gently and drop the non sharpened end of the bit gently as
you rotate the bit. When you see sparks just beginning to appear at the
cutting edge, stop grinding.
Examine the cutting edge for a uniform sharpness. Repeat the above steps if
necessary to get a clean cutting edge. At the trailing edge you must be
certain that this area is lower that the leading or cutting edge. It is
higher than the cutting edge it will hold the bit up and off of the material
to be drilled and not allow the cutting edge to do it's work.. If this is
the case, gently grind it again but drop the tail of the bit more than you
did the first time. When you are satisfied, then do these steps to the
other flute of the bit (other cutting edge). If it looks like a mess, not
to worry, just hold the bit 90 degrees to the wheel, grind off thee mess and
Grind gently and keep water handy to immerse the bit in. Do not grind the
but to aggressively, you might take the temper from the bit, if you do, then
it will not hold an edge.
It is a bit difficult to describe something I have been doing for 60 years
and is second nature to me , but I did the best I can. If you have any
questions feel free to email me directly.
It is really just a matter of practice. I'd practice with a 1/4" bit
initially, they are small enough to give you the idea and large enough that
you can see what your are doing, and everyone has a dozen 1/4" bits!
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