First, if they are brad-point, the Drill Doctor won't work.
Second, given your statements, the only other options are to
pay someone or buy new ones. (You can send your old ones to me)
Really, sharpening a standard drill bit only takes a few minutes and a
Now that your are going to buy new ones anyway, practice with your old ones.
I'm sure that if you take a few old ones down to the local machine shop, an
old fart will
show you how to sharpen them up and get you started.
BTW - The Drill Doctor does work fine. I gave one to my dad and he likes
it. I however, still prefer the old (faster) way myself.
A friend that grew up in a machine shop showed me a neat tr9ick for sharpening
bits... it works for me and I can't sharpen a damned pocket knife.. lol
He took 2 large hex nuts and laid them on the bench next to each other, with the
flat "sides" touching... the angle formed between the nuts (keep your mind out
of the gutter, now) under the mating surfaces is the angle that the drill point
needs to be... using the side of a grinder wheel and practicing with a few old
bits, even I learned to put an edge on 'em..
Please remove splinters before emailing
I think being able to sharpen bits by hand with a grinder is a really
useful skill. A drill gage doesn't cost much and makes it much easier
to get the angles equal, practice with one of your larger damaged bits
and compare to a good one till you can get it close. Once you
understand how the drill works and practice it really isn't that hard.
It's not as easy for tiny drill bits so start with a bigger one.
I've heard that it's bad to use the side of a regular grinding wheel as
they can break and fly apart with a lot of force. That said, I've done
it too, and haven't blown one up. But be careful, and its probably
better to use the face of the wheel.
Hope this helps, Eric
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 08:31:58 -0800, mac davis wrote:
The angle formed by two osculating hexagons is 120 degrees, whereas the
usual angle of twist bits is 118 degrees. Geometry aside, thanks
for sharing that cool tip. Certainly close enough for hand grinding.
"Keep your ass behind you"
vladimir a t mad scientist com
(Newbie apologising in advance for any breach of good manners in this
I find it easier to sharpen brad points than normal twist bits.
If you take a good brad point to your switched OFF grinder and settle
the bit onto the right-hand edge of the wheel, so that the bit points
at your right hip (say, 10 degrees right and 15 degrees down) and
memorise that hand-body-grinder relationship, and then take a blunt
brad point and, with the grinder switched ON, touch the bit gently on
the wheel each side of the point in turn ( no twisting, turning or
rocking: move the bit in line with its long axis) you should find that
you have a good, sharp bit!
And if the bit was blunt, you wont make it any less useful.
Me? I consider Twist Bits to be disposable. I pick up a set of Black and
Decker's from Wal*Mart once every other season for $6-$10. Others swear by
their Drill Doctor sharpeners.
Brad Points and Forstners?
I do not consider to be disposable -- yet.
But the Drill Doctor's won't sharpen those anyway yet.
So far mine are still sharp enough that I haven't had to make a decision.
I'm pleased with mine. I inherited a large quantity of good but neglected
tools a while back. When bits got dull, he bought a new one. That's
fine, but the good ones don't fill all the holes in the drill index, so...
It's reasonable for touching up anything more than say 1/8", and up to
about 1/2". Beyond that in either direction, no good.
Well I guess my next purchase will be the drill dr....and a book on learning
how to sharpen them on a grinder, (don't have one of those either but my
neighbor does) so I'll practice on her grinder and see what happens...I
stand corrected on the DR...you guys are a trip and I appreciate the
help...I get tired of buying new bits only cause mine need sharpening...I
don't have a money tree in my back yard! :-)
It's really a decent machine for what it is. Most of my drilling is in
the range of sizes that it's good for, so I'm glad I have it. Mine came
with a videotape which I watched before using it, and then again after
I'd used it for a few weeks as a refresher.
Thanks dave....majority has spoken......now to get my garage (20x20) to look
more like a woodshop....(a work in progress)..it's getting there
slowly...next big purchase will be a dust collector....will need some advice
there also next month...stayed tuned in! Thanks gang!
Thanks for the replys....you all have given me alot to think about...I use
to have a friend that worked in a machine shop...but he passed away years
ago but he did hand sharpening as I remember and used a grinder also for
stuff..............I got to buy a grinder also...at lease the grinder has a
dule purpose...so I don't have to keep running down to my neighbors house to
borrow her grinder ;-)
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 06:02:19 -0500, the inscrutable "Tina"
Tina, find a 1" belt sander and you'll solve two problems at
once. First, you can grind your twist drill bits more safely
on the belt than the grinding wheel due to less heat being
generated by the belt. Second, you can sand edges of woodworking
pieces on the belt. My Delta 31-080 (_Black_ model, Keeter)
sander is probably the most used of any of my powah tools. Find
one for ~$85 at tool stores or $30 on sale at HF (without the
disc, $60 with) or less when they're on sale.
Alternatively, build one yourself. It's not hard. 135k links:
Yea, though I walk through the valley of Minwax, I shall stain no Cherry.
Larry is right - and a belt grinder/sander is great for honing blades,
carving tools etc...
Larry Jaques wrote:
Never contemplated of doing drill bits on mine. I'll try it.
You can see mine set up below...
Here is the specific Lee Valley Link.
The motor is a 1/3 HP 1760 RPM (single speed) furnace blower motor. $75
- $120 new depending on source. A few $$ at a flea market if you have
the time -- I usually don't. Bought mine at the local Home Hardware, and
one at Princess Auto.
On Thu, 17 Mar 2005 10:09:53 -0500, the inscrutable WillR
No, no, no! GRINDING, not honing. And if you don't yet know the
difference, get Leonard Lee's book "The Complete Guide To Sharpening"
I suppose you could use a leather belt on one and actually hone
something, but that's purely overkill.
It's easier on the 5" disc than the belt due to belt layering,
but it can be done if you hold it against the belt where it's
not backed up by a guide. I use 120 grit belts most often.
Please return Stewardess to her original upright position.
http://www.diversify.com Tagline-based T-shirts!
I built a sliding guide with different angles and it's the fastest way I've
found for chisels and planes. I take nicks out on the ginder, then use the
belt to restore the bevel and sharpen. Then just final honing on high grit
And by setting the angle ala Leonard Lee's book, it's the absolute best and
fastest way to sharpen kitchen knives, leaving a nice tooth. That's the one
tool I've bought that SWMBO really appreciates.
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