questions on building closet organizer


I am planning to build a master closet organizer for a walk in closet. I am basically building big boxes as follows: using 3/4 oak furniture grade plywood for the tall sides and shelves and tops they are 15" deep there will be bascially 4 boxes of the following sizes 1) 50" wide X 81" tall x 14" deep 2) 61"w x 81" h x 14"d 3) 36"w x 84"h x 14"d 4) 48"w x 84"h x 14"d
the first 2 will be along one wall separated by a 3 ft door #1 is for long clothes #2 is double hang with a shelf in the middle
#3 and 4 will be joined together next to each other #3 is for long clothes #4 is double hang with shelf in middle
for each box I will have a brace near the top and bottom so that I can attach the box to the wall. the side panels will screw into the braces (i am assuming the braces should be solid wood)
| | |==========| < brace | | | | | | |==========| <brace
How do I attach the top shelf to the side panels? Using screws into the edge of the plywood is not a good idea. I could use a corner brace?
How do I make the bottom front rigid enough with out putting in a "toe kick" board or will it be ok without one esp on the boxes that have a middle shelf.
What is the widest I can go for the boxes before I have to worry about sagging in the pole and etc. I can add a middle brace to the pole to help support the weight?
the top shelf will not have anything heavy on it--maybe just sweater bags--do I need to worry about the shelf sagging in the middle.
I have looked at all the closet organizers and etc and they all look cheap and not all that strong looking and expensive. I have made a closet organizer for a small closet and now am expanding but this is different.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
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patliz1 wrote:

cleats into the walls and then stretch the hanging bar across the cleats? Use the hanging rod supports you can buy in a store to prevent sagging.
If you are determined to make 4 boxes (or I overlooked something), just make dados in the sides for your shelves, and glue/nail them in. Fill the nail holes later. When the box is done, stretch the hanging bar across to fit. Go to the library and check out a good book on cabinent making. That will give you better information on building techniques.
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I work part time (3 days a week) in a laminate shop as a fabricator building custom closets. We normally will not space the verticals past 36" because of sagging issues. We build the systems out of 3/4" melamine, either 14 or 18" deep. The 18" deep panels are for a hutch configuration where drawers are installed. in the lower sections. We also make drawer boxes 14" deep. We use oval chrome rods attached to the vertical panels with rod clips that attach to the predrilled holes in the panels. 32MM system, Structurally we place 3 permanent shelves, top, bottom and middle on an 84" floor mounted panel. Any other shelves are adjustable. We cam the shelves that are structural, but they could be attached by any typical cabinet construction methods. The bottom shelf has a toe kick below it but it does not have to have that, the toe kick is for aesthetics. The structure is the bottom shelf. Each vertical stack is attached to the wall on the top shelf with a couple L brackets. Screw in leveling feet are used on the bottom of the verticals to level the system. The widths you are contemplating will sag over time without any means of support. The best way to make it look good is to limit your widths by adding another vertical panel, not by attaching brackets or shelf supports under the shelves. See attached link for additional information. There are also many manufactures on the web with information on closet systems that will give you some ideas on design issues. CC
http://www.issvip.com/iss_closets.htm

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