Painting pressure treated lumber

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Might a stain make a good primer for paint?
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On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 13:41:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"

Contains a lot of moisture and the paint will peel. I'd wait a year or so.

Not really, the rain does not get absorbed because the PT is saturated with other chemicals.

Nope, peeling is peeling.

Look at the oldest house in your town. Chances are it is from the 1700's and if painted and cared for, still in good condition.

Wait for the snow to melt. Read the can, most paints should be 50 degrees or more, a few can tolerate 40 degrees.
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never paint PT wood, as it will just peel the PT chemicals prevent paint adhesion.........
and you far better off using composite decking because over time PT wood still fails.......
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Hmmmm..... how bout if I torched the wood, to sort of surface-singe it? Would that help adhesion?
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On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 17:43:10 -0400, Existential Angst wrote:

If you are going through that trouble, why not use KDAT instead? Kiln Dried After Treatment
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Too late. Plus this is stockade fencing, not too many local choices. Basically it looked sturdy and was there. Plus a kind of experimental installation, so I went cheap/convenient, not really planning too much ahead. Turned out pretty well, so now the painting issue.
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On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 13:04:42 -0400, "Existential Angst"

I'd use a solid stain. Durable and less likely to peel. I used in on my deck with good results on the railings and balusters. On the flat portion of the decking, it does not hold up so well with foot traffic.
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I put up stockade type fencing made of PT 3 years ago:
http://mysite.verizon.net/despen/fence /
One part is 2 years older than that.
There is nothing on the wood and it still looks as good as when I built it. I wouldn't dream of painting it, that would be a huge mistake.
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Dan Espen

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wrote:

Composite had its share of failures in the past too. Don't go for the cheapest stuff if you go that way.
There are also many woods that made good decks, but are pricey too. Mahogany, ipe, etc. I used tiger wood a couple of months back.
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On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 18:49:15 -0400, "Mike Marlow"

I bought mine at www.advantagelumber.com 25 boards and hardware to do a 12 x 16 deck was about $1000 delivered. This is what I bought http://www.advantagelumber.com/tigerwood_decking.htm
If you like wood, this is lovely to look at. I gave it a Penofin oil treatment.
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On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:

Actually have never had a problem with paint peeling on PT provided the lumber was "dry".

Agreed.
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wrote:

Hell, everything fails given enough time. Let's put some quantifiable time numbers on that failure rate.
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wrote:

buy from a major long term manufacturer...........
honestly i DONT LIKE WOOD for long term outdoor use.....
concrete doesnt cost that much more and lasts far longer.......
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wrote:

Yeah, but my deck is 8' off the ground and getting the wheelbarrow of concrete up the steps is a bitch.
The framing is PT and is in perfect condition after 25 years. I have a concrete patio under the deck too. The 4 x 4 deck supports are in metal brackets on the concrete.
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"bob haller" wrote:
buy from a major long term manufacturer...........
honestly i DONT LIKE WOOD for long term outdoor use.....
concrete doesnt cost that much more and lasts far longer....... ----------------------------------------------- HDPE anybody?
Lew
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Mike Marlow wrote:

For some time, I understand, they've been making railroad cross-ties out of concrete.
Evidently some believe that concrete will last longer than creosote-impregnated wood...
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Some special attribute of this concrete to prevent it cracking from vibration?
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Dave wrote:

In Japan they use a rubber pad between the rail plate and the concrete.
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On 9/29/2012 4:34 PM, bob haller wrote:

Geez, I replaced my fascia and soffits with PT lumber in 2000. Primed and painted it, and the paint still holds tight and lookin' good.
What did I do wrong?
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On 10/2/2012 9:25 AM, Hell Toupee wrote:

And that is where I use PT painted. I think others are referring to a surface that is walked on, a deck or porch.
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