OT, Somewhat: Flooring Question

A relative has a 1950's home on pillars, peel & stick tile in a large 20'X4 0' kitchen/dining room. She wants to install wood flooring. I have the p ine 6" T&G to give to her, so we don't have to be so conservative with the lumber supply aspect.
Her boys will be doing the work and I'll assist with tools and advise, but I'm not sure of a few things. The old tile is stuck down. Do we have to r emove the old tile (too much work!)? I'm thinking no.
We think there is a moisture barrier under the 3/4" ply subfloor. This pl y subfloor was laid, 30 yrs ago, over an original 3"-4" pine T&G subfloor. It won't be expensive or difficult to install another moisture barrier, s o before we lay it, do we definitely need to remove the old peel & stick ti le?
There are a few tiles that are loose, or have loose/lifted edges, and some tiles have chips/parts broken out. We still have a few boxes of the (origi nal installation) tiles, so we can more easily patch these broken/missing a reas, before laying the moisture barrier, rather than removing all the tile s, in order to make the floor even, with no dips or voids. Or is this patc hing not such a good idea? I'm thinking, this patching is a reasonable so lution for eliminating the broken/missing tile voids, that would, otherwise , be under the wood flooring.
Thanks for any help. Sonny
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On 06/28/2013 07:37 AM, Sonny wrote:

caused water damage, and in the process of drying things out to repair, it was determined the tile contained asbestos. The pros had to come in and remove all the tile before we could continue with repairs.
Check the tile to see if it contains asbestos!
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On Fri, 28 Jun 2013 08:07:08 -0700, Doug Winterburn

If it does, bag it when you dispose of it. You are usually allowed to remove tile and siding yourself, no pro needed.
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On 06/28/2013 08:43 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

The insurance company required the tile be removed and the pros to come in to do it.
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On 6/28/2013 9:37 AM, Sonny wrote:

If it was laminate flooring I would not hesitate to leave the tile and level it with an acrylic based thinset.
With real wood flooring, it is a judgement call, realizing the you must have something to nail to, and taking the height of the floor with regard to baseboards, toe kicks, etc.
Were I doing it, even for myself, I would most definitely remove the tile ... PITA though it be. You will sleep better at night knowing you did the best you could.
A small, handheld, jackhammer can be picked up for less than $200 at most BORG's, and can be a big help in removing the tile.
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ginal installation) tiles, so we can more easily patch these broken/missing areas, before laying the moisture barrier, rather than removing all the ti les, in order to make the floor even, with no dips or voids. Or is this pa tching not such a good idea? I'm thinking, this patching is a reasonable solution for eliminating the broken/missing tile voids, that would, otherwi se, be under the wood flooring.
1. Yes, totally reasonable to just lay over the existing tiles. 2. Yes, lay down a vapor barrier. They sell thick mill plastic for this pur pose at the borg. It has peel and stick along one edge and you tape it off wherever else you need to so you get a good seal. 3. Patch the voids in whatever way is easiest or don't depending on how dee p the voids are. If it is just 1/8" tile thickness and you are laying in 3/ 8" or thicker T&G I wouldn't even worry about it. 4. Shoot it down with staples in the groove using the proper floor nailer f or the thickness. Small ones for 3/8 & 1/2" and the big daddy for 3/4".
I've done this and similar a few times in some of my rentals and haven't ev er regretted it.
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On 6/28/13 9:37 AM, Sonny wrote:

Karl addressed the other issues very well, so I'll just address the moisture barrier.
You generally don't want two vapor barriers, or vapor barriers on each side of a wall or floor. This can trap moisture that will rot things and grow mold. Moisture will get in there... in fact, it's already in there in the air. If you put another barrier on another side of anything, there is no way for that moisture to dry out when it condenses or when moisture gets back in... which it will. Moisture barriers are like women... none are perfect. :-)
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On 6/28/2013 11:01 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

+1
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Hhhhmmmmm good thought. Hope my floors don't fall through someday. :-o
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On 6/28/13 3:40 PM, SonomaProducts.com wrote:

I know you're kidding, but for anyone listening in the real problem would be mold. That stuff can get pretty nasty especially for someone prone to allergies.
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