Need advice on polyurethane on red oak baseboard

[sandy.assum]

I have some red oak baseboard that I need to finish and want to apply a polyurethane that will prevent yellowing. Are all brands of polyurethane the same or are there any brands that I should avoid? Thanks. Best Regards, Sandy

[Edwin Pawlowski]

If you want to avoid yellowing, use a water based. The oil will yellow. The oak will darken over time anyway.

[George]

Yep, and our eyes still see amber colors as warm and friendly. Makes absolutely clear, or with some water-borne types, cold bluish stuff look weird.

[sweet sawdust]

[Renata]

For a reason now forgotten, I was showing a neighbor a couple pieces I had made a while back. Both oak, one finshed w/water base, one w/oil. The oil actually looked better as oak has that natural amber hue and the oil poly warmed it. And, as stated, oak will darken a bit as it ages.

Renata

[J. Clarke]

Uh, how does a woodsmith "planner" prevent polyurethane from yellowing? And how does it prevent a hospital visit as a result of applying polyurethane?

[efgh]

I bet his response was meant for the thread about the 2 10" blades cutting multiple pieces.

[Swingman]

What! ... you haven't heard about the new, 2007, laser guided, anti-yellowing, "planner"!!?? ;)

... wanna bet he was replying to the thread about gang ripping with two blades on a table saw and got the wrong thread?

[bf]

I would also use oil based. When I first started in this hobby, I always used water based Poly. The projects I made don't look near as nice as the ones finished in oil.

Also, oil poly is more durable/tough, which is nice to have on a baseboard which might get banged from time to time.

I don't know if there's any specific brands to avoid. Just get one of the major brands and you should be fine. If this is the first time you've ever applied poly, I recommend getting "polyuerethane for floors". It is thinned a little bit, which makes it much easier to avoid getting brush marks/bubbles. That's what I use.

[sweet sawdust]