Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4 MDF. I've
never done this before and want to know which is the best method. I've read
everything from using contact cement (think I want to avoid this one) to PVA
and light wood glue. Do I lay the veneer down and roll it out from the
center with a roller or what? I'm thinking once I get it glued down flat, I
can lay another piece of MDF on it and stack a lot of weight on it, since I
have no type of press. Will this work?
Thanks in advance
Todd L <--- rookie woodworker
Todd wrote:>Greetings, I need to glue raw veneer sheets 18" x 36" onto 3/4
contact cement won't need any clamping. Just a good rolling-out after careful
adhering. There's a neat trick to avoiding the air pockets that might occur.
Wanna learn it? Why avoid Contact cement? Fire hazard? Odor? There's a low VOC
water-based adhesive out there, if that helps. Tom
Someday, it'll all be over....
A caul is a piece of scrap, slightly bowed/crooked to allow the center to press
first upon the workpiece, then as you tighten the clamps, the outer edges press
down. Too much pressure will bow it the other way, and then you'll get voids.
Someday, it'll all be over....
One answer to that question [there is more than one] is wax paper -- put it
between the verneer and the underlayment and only withdraw it slowly a
section at a time as you roll it out from the center.
Even on 3/4" MDF???
[ I made this mistake on 1/8" Baltic Birch substrate and posted the message
"Why did my veneer panels bow?". But I was thinking that you wouldn't really
need a backer once the substrate is thick enough. Was thinking 1/2" MDF and
up would be thick enough to avoid a veneer backing... ]
I have another question if you please. I built a frame for a cabinet door
out of curly maple that came out very slightly warped after unclamping. It
is square, just a little twisted. I did not clamp the boards down, as I now
know I should have. I learn as I go. When layed on a falt surface, one end
sticks up about 1/4". Will gluing in 3/4 MDF into a rabbet cut on the back
and pressured in so it seats good into the rabbet keep this frame straight?
Or do I need to build it over. All my other frames came out good except for
Hard to say, Todd. If the panel is thick enough and the frame thin enough,
you might get away with it. It's never worked for me and on the odd
occasion when I have cocked up, I've had to re-do the door.
You might try just lightly pinning the panel into the rebate and see how it
goes. Don't drive the pins fully home, so you can pull them out again
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com ).
Maybe yes, maybe no. Depends on wood thickness, size, etc.
Of course, if you just set the frame down on something flat and leave it
there you've got little better then a fifty fifty chance it could straighten
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.