Miter guide (gauge) for router table

[mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.ne]

I'll be building a router table - mostly a hybrid of several designs I've looked at. Some people advise against putting in a miter track, suggesting that one use a router sled instead.

I figure I can do both. Apparently, one can spend a LOT on a miter gauge. It seems to make sense not to chince out in this area, but spending over a hundred bucks just for the miter gauge seems a bit too much for me.

Does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations regarding miter gauges for a home-built router table?

Thanks!

Jack

[Woody]

I like sleds a lot more than miter gauges, but my sled rides in the track. I was going to say that you need a track for featherboards, but they would do just as well with just screw holes. I am building a new router table, and your question has given me something to think about; thanks.

[Mike O.]

Depending on your budget there are always used original equipment gauges on Ebay pretty cheap. Another thought is the low end Incra v27 which can be had for about $55 at woodpeck.com. Even though the Incra has it's limitations, I think it's still better than most original equipment gauges.

Mike O.

[root]

Never gave it a second thought. I always assumed everybody else in the world just used the same miter guage as their tablesaw.

If your miter guage is the el-cheapo one that came with the tablesaw (and you hate it) then make the RT slot compatible with your TS, and upgrade your TS miter gauge (twofer)

Of course, if you are one of those rare individuals that can use both tools at the same time, then my suggestion won't be that valuable :-)

[mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.ne]

LOL ... I'm lucky if I can breathe and type at the same tinmww .. uh, I mean, .. time

[Leon]

"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" wrote in message news: [e-mail]...

I would put the track in for feather boards but don't bother with the miter gauge. The set up time will bore you quickly. I use a square piece of 3/4" thick plywood that is guided by the FENCE not the slot.

[Toller]

I can see that would work much of the time, but sometimes wouldn't the bit hit the plywood?

[MikeG]

Think of it as a backerboard to prevent tearout

[Leon]

Absolutely... You want that. Think Zero clearance on the back side of the cut and less tear out on the back side of the cut. When done rip 1" off that side of the plywood and it is brand new again. I have done hundreds of end cuts on the rails of cabinet doors this way.

[David]

Yup.

[David]

You could use a piece of poplar instead if you are concerned about dulling your bits. I don't think it's all that big a deal, to tell you the truth but if you are worried about it, don't use laminated products to push the workpieces as they double as a backer board to prevent tear-out. You must cut into the backer to complete the cut on the workpiece.

Dave