Not for a kitchen but I did a ~2z3' x2" mantle sort of thing with marble tile on a concrete slab. The flue from a wood stove passed about an inch underneath and I couldn't think of another material that would take the heat.
Locally, I have had a couple of folks I know try this. Not incompetent peo ple, both have some skills.
Here's my take. Impossible for them to get the tops dead flat. Anyone usin g cutting boards or large bowls will get the meaning of that. They used a specialized concrete mixed for this application (I didn't even know there w as one...) and it was difficult to work. I looked at it, and to me it look ed like about a 3500psi mix with #2 sand as aggregate. It was difficult f or them to work and smooth. Cure strength was that of regular concrete, 21 days before active, regular use. The top developed spider cracks (normal for concrete) well before that.
There are sealers to be used, but non are hard enough to give an abrasion r esistant, washable surface that will last without renewal. One reported ba ck to me that he sealed with a urethane sealer and it had a reaction to the concrete and started to amber. He also told me that he didn't like the lo ok of the sealed product. So he sanded the top, and painted it with epoxy garage floor coating. A hard finish no doubt, but the end product looks lik e painted wood/concrete/plywood/crap and he is completely unhappy. However , at this point he doesn't want to tear it out because of his huge commitme nt to the process and the mess it will make in his house.
Amigo #2 was advised to use some kind of oil/paraffin sealer, and it gave n o protection. He colored the concrete and gave it some shading, but as wit h amigo #1 it didn't look anything like the stuff they show on TV. His cra cked a bit as well, but he liked the rustic look. He poured his backsplash in place and of course it cracked all along the backsplash to top detail, so it has an ugly caulk line. The oil finish looked OK, but he found out v ia his 8 year old that it wasn't the slightest bit stain resistant to Koola id. It isn't the slightest bit abrasion resistant. He found that if he set s a hot pan on the oiled concrete it leaves a ring where the oil reacts to the heat.
He is going to break all of his out and have me put laminate in and be done with it. He worked on that project for about 3 weeks and had money in pre p, shoring up the cabinets, materials, all his labor, the inability to use the kithen for a couple of weeks, and now complete frustration and unhappin ess. My cost for the laminate he wanted was $800, and at this time I think he would pay triple that to make it go away.
Robert
At least give him enough for a beer on me--it was a good story!
Bill
For #2 I always use epoxy grout. It's impervious to staining and lasts forever. Problems are limited colors and it tends to have a glossy appearance, it also is like smearing warm bubblegum around when applying.
-BR
you finished the gear shift knob then i guess
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