On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 4:26:31 PM UTC-6, Markem wrote:
Locally, I have had a couple of folks I know try this. Not incompetent peo
ple, both have some skills.
Here's my take. Impossible for them to get the tops dead flat. Anyone usin
g cutting boards or large bowls will get the meaning of that. They used a
specialized concrete mixed for this application (I didn't even know there w
as one...) and it was difficult to work. I looked at it, and to me it look
ed like about a 3500psi mix with #2 sand as aggregate. It was difficult f
or them to work and smooth. Cure strength was that of regular concrete, 21
days before active, regular use. The top developed spider cracks (normal
for concrete) well before that.
There are sealers to be used, but non are hard enough to give an abrasion r
esistant, washable surface that will last without renewal. One reported ba
ck to me that he sealed with a urethane sealer and it had a reaction to the
concrete and started to amber. He also told me that he didn't like the lo
ok of the sealed product. So he sanded the top, and painted it with epoxy
garage floor coating. A hard finish no doubt, but the end product looks lik
e painted wood/concrete/plywood/crap and he is completely unhappy. However
, at this point he doesn't want to tear it out because of his huge commitme
nt to the process and the mess it will make in his house.
Amigo #2 was advised to use some kind of oil/paraffin sealer, and it gave n
o protection. He colored the concrete and gave it some shading, but as wit
h amigo #1 it didn't look anything like the stuff they show on TV. His cra
cked a bit as well, but he liked the rustic look. He poured his backsplash
in place and of course it cracked all along the backsplash to top detail,
so it has an ugly caulk line. The oil finish looked OK, but he found out v
ia his 8 year old that it wasn't the slightest bit stain resistant to Koola
id. It isn't the slightest bit abrasion resistant. He found that if he set
s a hot pan on the oiled concrete it leaves a ring where the oil reacts to
He is going to break all of his out and have me put laminate in and be done
with it. He worked on that project for about 3 weeks and had money in pre
p, shoring up the cabinets, materials, all his labor, the inability to use
the kithen for a couple of weeks, and now complete frustration and unhappin
ess. My cost for the laminate he wanted was $800, and at this time I think
he would pay triple that to make it go away.
I cause many many kitchen counter and bath vanity tops to be put in,
lots of them.
I have to go with what the client prefers, which these days is a toss up
between granite and quartz.
My personal preference the past few years is quartz. AAMOF, put quartz
in my own lake house kitchen this past year, which is a rental property.
The trend these past few years in multi-million dollar homes, and high
dollar kitchens, has tended to shy away from the 1 1/2" bull nosed
granite, to thinner, quartz (3/4 to 5/4) counter tops.
Often with laminate, or glass mosaic tile, backsplashes.
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