Kitchen counter advice??

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On Friday, January 29, 2016 at 4:26:31 PM UTC-6, Markem wrote:

Locally, I have had a couple of folks I know try this. Not incompetent peo ple, both have some skills.
Here's my take. Impossible for them to get the tops dead flat. Anyone usin g cutting boards or large bowls will get the meaning of that. They used a specialized concrete mixed for this application (I didn't even know there w as one...) and it was difficult to work. I looked at it, and to me it look ed like about a 3500psi mix with #2 sand as aggregate. It was difficult f or them to work and smooth. Cure strength was that of regular concrete, 21 days before active, regular use. The top developed spider cracks (normal for concrete) well before that.
There are sealers to be used, but non are hard enough to give an abrasion r esistant, washable surface that will last without renewal. One reported ba ck to me that he sealed with a urethane sealer and it had a reaction to the concrete and started to amber. He also told me that he didn't like the lo ok of the sealed product. So he sanded the top, and painted it with epoxy garage floor coating. A hard finish no doubt, but the end product looks lik e painted wood/concrete/plywood/crap and he is completely unhappy. However , at this point he doesn't want to tear it out because of his huge commitme nt to the process and the mess it will make in his house.
Amigo #2 was advised to use some kind of oil/paraffin sealer, and it gave n o protection. He colored the concrete and gave it some shading, but as wit h amigo #1 it didn't look anything like the stuff they show on TV. His cra cked a bit as well, but he liked the rustic look. He poured his backsplash in place and of course it cracked all along the backsplash to top detail, so it has an ugly caulk line. The oil finish looked OK, but he found out v ia his 8 year old that it wasn't the slightest bit stain resistant to Koola id. It isn't the slightest bit abrasion resistant. He found that if he set s a hot pan on the oiled concrete it leaves a ring where the oil reacts to the heat.
He is going to break all of his out and have me put laminate in and be done with it. He worked on that project for about 3 weeks and had money in pre p, shoring up the cabinets, materials, all his labor, the inability to use the kithen for a couple of weeks, and now complete frustration and unhappin ess. My cost for the laminate he wanted was $800, and at this time I think he would pay triple that to make it go away.
Robert
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

At least give him enough for a beer on me--it was a good story!
Bill

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On 1/29/2016 11:24 AM, Casper wrote:

I cause many many kitchen counter and bath vanity tops to be put in, lots of them.
I have to go with what the client prefers, which these days is a toss up between granite and quartz.
My personal preference the past few years is quartz. AAMOF, put quartz in my own lake house kitchen this past year, which is a rental property.
The trend these past few years in multi-million dollar homes, and high dollar kitchens, has tended to shy away from the 1 1/2" bull nosed granite, to thinner, quartz (3/4 to 5/4) counter tops.
Often with laminate, or glass mosaic tile, backsplashes.
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wrote:

For a bathroom, perhaps. It's too soft for kitchens.
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On Wed, 27 Jan 2016 09:34:30 -0800 (PST)

you finished the gear shift knob then i guess
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