Is it safe to do this?


I need to rip a 2x4 to 1 1/2 x 3 1/2. However, my Table saw cannot make 3 1/2 inch cut.
Can I rip one side to 2" and flip the board end over end and rip the other side, Safely?
I have become quite attached to these ugly ole fingers of mine.
Pete
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sumdume wrote:

yup. let 'er rip. <g>
dave
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Think it might be better when you make the second cut from the other side, don't cut all the way through. Leave a bit (maybe <1/8th inch) to keep everything together, then finish it off with a hand saw. Don't use a featherboard for the second cut, either! Tom
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Never mind about the featherboard warning, I was worrying about closing the already cut side before the blade. As long as the featherboard is far enough before the blade (and pressing _below_ the previous cut), you'll be fine. Pushstick, definitely! Tom
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No problem. Do not however use your hand to push the wood thru. even though the blade will not be penetrating through the top of the wood on the first pass do not hold it down with your hand as you pass it over the blade. I have read horror stories on this NG (OK, one horror story) where someone was making a dado and using there hand to push the wood over the blade and the wood kicked back and the guys hand went into the spinning dado blade.
Use a push block and it can be done safely.
--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
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for this type of maneuver i use a push block that extends over the wood and has a piece of wood on the bottom towards the back that grabs the wood.
I can post a picture if you like.
--
Stoutman
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I appreciate all the responses. FWIW - I did build a push block out of 3/4 plywood.
I was cutting some rough red cedar to size. I got it done. They don't look perfect but I will tone them up on my jointer. The best thing is that I can still count to 10 with my boots on.
Pete
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I actually meant "push stick" not "push block". There is a difference.
The one I use is similar to the one shown at this web page :
http://www.woodzone.com/images/tips/rectpushstick.jpg
--
Stoutman
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Yeah, that's about what I made. Mine is little longer I think and not quite as tall.
Pete
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What Tom said. I've done this... Finish the cut with a hand saw and then clean up with a hand plane.
--
Do the right thing. It will gratify some people and astonish the rest.
- Mark Twain.
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A planer will work as well, but since you didn't ask about that I would guess that you don't have one. When I do this one, I rip just over 1/2 of the thickness. Do use a push stick. The cut side will need some fixing up, as the cuts never seem to line up just right, especially if the board you are ripping hasn't been jointed and planed. robo hippy
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"sumdume" wrote in message

Unless this is a really old 2x4, it already is 1 1/2 x 3 1/2.
(actually, just a little shy on both counts)
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Last update: 12/13/05
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Good point! :)
Currently rehabing a house built in 1930, nothing like oak framing with true 2x4's, they sure don't make em like they used to!
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I kept waiting for someone to see the light. Thank you. Tom

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Actually, the boards measured 1 3/4 x 3 3/4 when I got them. They were not planed smooth.
Pete
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Whatcha makin'? A fishing pole?
Lee
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To e-mail, replace "bucketofspam" with "dleegordon"

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Mostly noise and sawdust. It's supposed to be a trestle style picnic table.
Pete
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You might like to find on my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety - Saw Blades and scroll down to 'Deep Cutting'.
I think that to some extent, the problems increase with the length of the cut.
Jeff G
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Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
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well, it sounds a bit scarey, but can be done.... just be CAREFUL... use of push stick, feather board(s), kevlar vest, etc. recommended..
before making each cut, remind yourself of a redneck's last words: "Hey, y'all... watch this!"
Mac
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm
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