I would like to learn a technique for consistantly routing a tapered
groove in a 3/4" piece of wood. It needs to start (or end) at zero and
taper within a length of 2" to 3/4 in depth (basically ending with a
hole) The groove will be 1/2" wide.
Get 2 sticks. Taper them down from 3/4 to 0 at the lenght you want.
Glue them to a bit of MDF/PLY. Cut a slot in the board to
accomodate a router bit and guide bushing. Or cut 2 more sticks and
glue them to the other side as a router guide (parallel and as wide as
the router base - like railroad tracks that the router will slide back
and forth between). You now have a jig. Clamp the board to the
work piece and route the taper.
and On 25 Mar 2006 17:03:26 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
You're prolly right.
If so, use Kentucky Windage to add some to the angled sticks but
watch out that the router bit does not end up extended an unsafe distance.
Now that the first reply has given you the basic shapes, sketch the
problem on a sheet of paper.
If I understand correctly this groove is "tapered" from to to bottom.
If so, you could make an angled block or ramp for a router to ride on.
If necessary for your application you could make a base for the router
with a matching slope, that would ride on the ramp attached to the
work piece. This would keep the router perpendicular to the workpiece,
so that the sidewall at the end of the groove was perpendicular to the
face of the workpiece also.
| I would like to learn a technique for consistantly routing a tapered
| groove in a 3/4" piece of wood. It needs to start (or end) at zero
| and taper within a length of 2" to 3/4 in depth (basically ending
| with a hole) The groove will be 1/2" wide.
If I didn't have a lot of these to cut, I'd consider a pair of 1x
ramps, a chisel, and a router plane.
DeSoto, Iowa USA
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