Finish the back side??


Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ... Just kidding. :)
I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides and back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back side of the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it anyway, but is it really necessary??
Thanks
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Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm
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Just think how proud you will feel when some fella looks back there and allows as how that was a mighty particular wood butcher that finished the backside too.
BTB, ply will warp too so a finish is a fine idea.
-- PDQ
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| Took my maple dresser I am building to the finishing room tonight (ok, its | the same room as the table saw and everything else, I just wanted to sound | cool) and started applying my finish of choice. Dark brown stain and ... | Just kidding. :) | | I am applying wipe on poly. The dresser has 1/2" maple ply on the sides and | back. My question is do you (should you) apply the poly to the back side of | the ply? Ply should be pretty stable to moisture right? I did it anyway, | but is it really necessary?? | | Thanks | | -- | Stoutman | http://www.garagewoodworks.com/index.htm | (Featuring a NEW look) | |
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To me, finishing both sides is cheap insurance.
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Need to give it some resistance to moisture change. Need not be poly. Simple shellac would help, stinks less in confined spaces, and does a good job.
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"stoutman"wrote in message

Yes.
Even though it is plywood you definitely want to keep the same moisture absorption/depletion rate, from RH changes, the same on all sides/surfaces.
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stoutman wrote:

NONE of the antiques we own are finished on the back, nor is any of the good factory furniture. The antiques even have sawmill marks on the back, as well as the drawer backs and bottoms. The backs resemble rough pallet wood.
Since it's a plywood back, and should be firmly attached, I don't think the finish is necessary. I don't finish the inside of plywood pieces unless they'll show, as in a cabinet.
A finished back does show that you care! <G>
Barry
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Way back when I believe that the only time that backs were finished was if the piece was designed so the back wasn't going against a wall. I thin that it was FWW that ran a some pictures of a piece from the Smithsonian. It was perfect in front and extremely rough in the back. It was great to see the contrast.
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On Tue, 14 Feb 2006 20:09:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm,

Frank Klausz told us to finish all sides of all pieces every time we make one. And if one side is veneered, the other should be as well.
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snipped-for-privacy@diversify.com wrote:

I guess all of the furniture makers who made all of the museum pieces I've looked at didn't know Frank. <G>
I agree with the veneer comment and do it myself, but I'm seen many long-surviving contradictions to it.
Barry
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news:3uKIf.388> I guess all of the furniture makers who made all of the museum pieces

How many of those museum pieces came to be antique in centrally heated/air conditioned buildings?
Did you check the curvature on the growth rings of the lumber they were made of? Flatter the flatter.
In short, what you say is cute, but foolish.
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George wrote:

Some are in New England Shaker buildings, or in Old Sturbridge Village, where they don't have 'lectricity.
Barry (the cute one...)
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I finish all surfaces if it for the kitchen, bathroom or outside use. For things like bookcases, dressers or other pieces that are designed to go against a wall, I don't bother.
Dave

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