I tried finishing a piece of aromatic cedar with a water-based varnish. My
problem is that it has gone sticky in places as if resin from the wood is
affecting the finish. I will have to sand it down and re-apply a new finish.
What would be the best treatment for this sort of wood? I need to seal the
surface with a semi-matt finish. I then need to mark on top of this with ink
lines that will not penetrate or 'bleed' into the surface.
Thanks for any advice,
Yup. The aroma is not always what is sought. I made my wife a music box of red
cedar some years ago, and finished both inside and outside. Made the youngest
kid a hope chest (walnut) the same year, lined it with red cedar and left the
"I have as much authority as the Pope, I just don't have as many people who
believe it." George Carlin
Just an FYI. Western redcedar (Thuja plicata) is NOT aromatic cedar.
Although western redcedar is mildly aromatic. Eastern redcedar (Juniperus
virginiana) is what is commonly referred to as aromatic cedar. My source:
The encyclopedia of wood, sterling publishing.
re. email: I have no equal.
"Charlie Self" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
The Encyclopedia of Wood is a reprint of the Wood Handbook, Wood as an
Engineering Material, from the USDA (Forest Service). Lee Valley has a great
hardcover reprint of it.
"I have one yardstick by which I test every major problem-and that yardstick
is: Is it good for America?" Dwight D. Eisenhower
There are four "interesting" cedars, and many others too.
WRC is lightweight, easily dented, and smells of either tomcats or
pencils, depending on your taste.
ERC is commonplace, cheap, smells "of cedar" and is the one that gets
used for chest linings.
Real "aromatic cedar" is cedar of lebanon, a true cedar and not a
jumped-up juniper. Damned hard to find (your only real source is
parkland with storm-damaged ornamentals) and expensive. BTW - don't
fell your own - it's brittle and has a reputation as a killer tree.
Spanish cedar is the stuff used for cigar humidors, because it doesn't
mind the humidity. Slightly aromatic, but not much compared to the
others. It has a well-known problem with some boards weeping.
Personally I avoid weeping spanish cedar by cutting around the resin
pocket and just not using that part of the board. If the OP has a
resin problem, I'd wonder if this is what they're using.
Other "cedars" are the Moroccan thuya burrs used for turning and
veneers. They're mainly decorative, but they have a really intense
smell when machining them, or burning the offcuts.
There are also incense cedars (traditional for pencil making).
They're useless _as_ incense, but they're a good flavour-free spindle
to coat powdered incense onto.
Port Orford Cedar is just the stuff if you've bust your boat and need
a new mast.
Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
I have two lovely pieces of cedar, which I am making into Go boards, a
traditional Japanese game. I sealed the wood with a water-based matt varnish
prior to applying lines using ink - my intention being to finish off with
another coat of varnish to protect the lines.
My problem is that the cedar, which has been seasoned for about ten years,
seems to be exuding some sort of sap which is reacting with the varnish in
places, making it permanently sticky - particularly noticeable at the end
grain, but also on the surface.
I will have to sand them back to bare wood now and start again. What I want
to know is how to give a durable finish that will seal the wood sufficiently
so that the ink lines will not bleed into the grain of the wood - without
being made sticky by the aromatic sap/vapour. Ideally, I want a semi-matt
Would Tung or Danish oil work? Another consideration is an oil based varnish
mixed with turpentine. Some advice would be appreciated before I waste time
and energy getting it wrong.
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