Drill arbor keeps falling out

[Barry Kwasny]

I have a 9 year old bridgewood BW1758 DP. It has a HD YAMA chuck and #2MT, all original. Has not been heavily used and worked fine until lately. I have a sanding drum set and needed to use it. I chucked in a sanding drum and while working on a 3" thick piece of pine the chuck and arbor dropped out. I placed the chuck and arbor into the quill and tightened down again and again since it keeps falling out when I use the sanding drums. It seems to drill fine. Any idea if I need a new morse taper? What makes it drop out?

Thanks, Barry

[Edwin Pawlowski]

Tapered chucks are designed to drill, not sand. The lateral forces can knock them off. When used for boring, the pressure is all downwards and it keeps the tapered part together. When sanding the force is to the side and you have a lot of leverage and it tends to work like a wedge.

You can try cleaning the mating parts and tapping them together, but it will probably just fall out again. Time to start saving $$ for a real sander. Ed

[bridger]

drill presses with non bar-drawn tapers are not for use with mill cutters, sanding drums, router bits and other side loaded tooling. it's gonna keep falling out, and eventually you will damage the taper.

[JMWEBER987]

Lee Valley Tools (among others) sells a bearing device to support the bottom of the sanding drum to eliminate side pressure on the drill press spindle. I recently saw plans online on how to build your own but of course can't locate it now that I want to. Mike in Arkansas

[xrongor]

i posted a while back about how to do this with a skateboard bearing and some all thread. im sure google will find it.

randy

[P©WÉ®T©©LMAN]

Taper type arbor drill presses are not intended for use with sanding drums, you may even score the faces of the taper with continued use. Use a real drum sander or get a thread on type arbor drill press if you still want to use a drill press for sanding. My bro in law had the same problem & actually smeared a dab of locktite on the taper face before tapping it back in, I did not really think it would help but so far it has held proving it's worth a try if like him you don't care about getting it out again. Actually he (my bro in law) does not care about anything & has reduced many good tools to garbage due to misuse over the years.

[Charlie Self]

Powertoolman notes:

Lots of people do. In this case, the OP might try thoroughly cleaning both parts of the assembly with alcohol or acetone to make sure ALL grease is gone. Then reassemble carefully and see what happens.

Charlie Self "It is even harder for the average ape to believe that he has descended from man." H. L. Mencken

[John Hofstad-Parkhill]

Barry:

A 2MT taper is self locking, if it isn't then you need to check for debris or any small dings. Unfortunately, checking the female taper is difficult. There are 2MT taper cleaners, plastic devices that are inexpensive and work pretty well. If the female taper is damaged, then a 2MT finishing reamer will repair it, however that's an expensive bit of hardware. Check the male taper as well, you can stone off any blemishes.

Then, as already mentioned, make sure both sides are clean.

Then ensure the tang is aligned properly and give it a good whack with a mallet to seat it.

You should have no problems. Milling loads are significantly more stressful than sanding. I have a 17" DP that I occasionally use for sanding drum operations and don't have any problems with the MT releasing.