You're asking for a kickback by refraining from using the fence. There is a
guide made just for this and it's not expensive or hard to make.
Never heard that, anywhere, ever. And ... makes no sense, especially
because of the
potential danger involved.
OTOH, widely published advice to not trap the work with blade angled
the fence makes eminent sense.
Jim Tolpin, p88 Table Saw Magic:
"SAFE BEVEL RIPPING
Whenever the blade is tilted toward the fence, the stock between the
the fence is captive, and cannot rise off the table. Such pieces are
prone to being thrown back toward the front of the saw. ..."
Not to mention that if the stock is not flat, it's possible that it
will rise as it
passes the blade and thus cut into the stock beyond the desired cut
the blade tilted away from the fence, such stock would have some
material left if it rises. Subsequent pass would remove that; no harm-
And ... with blade tilted toward fence, there is much more danger to
pushing the end of the stock past the blade
Ripping anything without a fence is an invitation to kickback.
There's nothing wrong with using your fence while the blade is
tilted. That's the "right" way to make the cut.
I'm guessing the warnings you read probably had to do with the danger
of using the fence as a length stop while cross cutting with the miter
gage that travels in the slot in your table.
In general, you should not use the fence if the part of the board next
to the fence will be wider (blade to fence) than it is long (along the
fence). The danger there is that the relatively short part against
the fence can easily be cocked out of alignment, throwing one corner
into the rising teeth on the back side of the blade while the opposite
corner is pinched against the fence. It's this pinching action that
gives kickback its power.
Do a google search within this group on "kickback". You'll find a
great deal of discussion and some really good explanations by some
guys who put a lot of thought into the hows and whys.
"In theory, theory and practice are the same, but in practice, they
However, as others have said you generally want the blade tilted away
from the fence.
Also, if you are running a piece with a bevel already ripped on it along
the fence, you generally don't want to put the point of the bevel flat
on the table as it could slide under the fence a bit. (Most fences
don't come right down to the table.) In this case you either need to
flip the piece over (so the point of the bevel hits the fence securely)
or else use a secondary fence that goes right down to the table.
I think what you read was actually more along the lines of "Don't use
the fence and miter gauge at the same time" OR "When using the fence with
the blade tilted, move the fence to the side of theblade such that the
top of the blade is tilted _away_ from the fence."
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
All of you are correct. The instruction is not to use the bevel guide and
the fence at the same time. I guess nothing it too obvious to put in
instructions. I learned a lot for the other particulars of your posts.
Communication is facilitated when everyone uses the same terminology for the
same thing. In this case, what you refer to as the "bevel guide" is properly
termed the miter gauge.
A bevel and a miter are not the same thing. A bevel is made by crosscutting or
ripping, with the blade tilted at some angle away from vertical. A miter, on
the other hand, is made with the blade vertical, and the cut line at some
angle other than 90 degrees to the edge of the board. When the two are
combined, it's called a compound miter.
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
On Mar 23, 5:32 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org (Doug Miller) wrote:
The haze surrounding this thread is somewhat cleared up by Doug Miller
who correctly defines the difference between a miter and a bevel
cut. If the original poster refered to using the fence and the miter
gauge at the same time we all know that is an invitation to kickback.
For those who have the Unifence ( the Delta manufactured fence for the
Unisaw) you can slide the fence toward the operator,(It operates
independently of the clamping mechanism) leaving no fence where the
stock passes the blade. You are still able to use the fence near the
leading edge of the blade to set repeatable lengths.
A way to due this with other manufacturers fences is to clamp a
short block to the fence near the leading edge when the stock passes
the blade it will be guided by the miter gage alone.
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