compound mortise and tenon

I want to build a stool with splayed legs and thru mortise and tenon to attach the legs to the seat. None of my books describe how to create a compound mortise\tenon construct. Any suggestions where to look? I tried fine woodworking cd, but no luck.

Reply to
Shelby Carter
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Trend makes a M&T jig as does Leigh - their FMT set up, which can do compound angle M&T joints.

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one will let you route mortises in both parts to be joined and you make a loose tenon to fit. Loose tenons give you at least as strong a joint as the traditional M&T joint so consider that route.

The "Loose Tenon" - a mortise in both parts and a separate "loose tenon" to fit in the mortises of the two parts to be joined. The parts are all their visible length - no adding tenon lengths. No shoulders to cut. You only need to layout one face on each part. No need to make a new part if you blow a tenon, you just cut another loose tenon.

Here's a shop built jig you can make that uses a router with an edge guide.

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Reply to
charlie b

"Shelby Carter" wrote in news:89gLd.9703$ snipped-for-privacy@fe1.texas.rr.com:

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Reply to
Patriarch

No, the M&T jigs won't help in this situation. What you need to do is look up (maybe google) on how to do a Windsor chair. The classic version of these have splayed dowel legs mortised through the seat, much like what you'll want to do on your stool.

They classic way of doing this I think is once they have cut the pieces (I know that's what you need to know), then they shrink the leg in a oven to get it real dry, they pound it in, wedge the end and when it's gets its basic moisture back it is locked in place but good.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Nope, shrink the tenon end in hot sand and place into wetter leg, where leg squeezes as it dries. Not the optimum in M-T joints, because there's no shoulder to take the load, but it will work.

I have seen some that assume that people will lean back in the chair, therefore the sides are fitted, with the front and rear stretchers partially bored across, effectively locking and preventing them from withdrawing.

In compound, I like straight tenons into angled mortises for best strength.

Reply to
George

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