Comments and suggestions welcomed for my shop plans

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Okay, I'm getting ready to set up my workshop ... it's not very big and like many weekend woodworkers, I probably have too much stuff for too little room. But then again, my father did some fantastic work with far less space available in the corner of his old garage.
Anyway, here's my planned setup. I'd appreciate any suggestions for better placement of the various tools.
The shop dimensions are 11' x 18'.
The door on the far right comes in from the garage.
The door in the front is a garage-style door, only 6' wide. This will allow for easy access when I need to move things around, plus I can open it up during the spring and fall when the weather permits.
The first picture shows the planned placement of the power tools.
http://www.phronemophobia.com/Workshop/Workshop3.jpg
The second picture shows the planned DC hookup.
http://www.phronemophobia.com/Workshop/Workshop4.jpg
Thanks!
Jack
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mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net wrote:

I see the miter area and notice you won't be able to cut a long board since it is in the corner. Might I suggest that you mount all your tools on lockable wheels so that you can roll them to the center of the room when you need extra space. Then you can put them where you need them as you work and then push them back against the wall when they aren't needed. My brother did this in a small workshed and he can do a lot with the rolling tools.
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That's a good idea. I had planned on doing that for the table saw.
Oh ... the Miter Saw bench will be level with my regular bench. I was hoping that this would allow me to extend some longer boards to the left. To the right would be a problem.
Jack
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mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net (in PcWdnXl5Ad_Fho snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com) said:
| Anyway, here's my planned setup. I'd appreciate any suggestions for | better placement of the various tools.
You might consider locating the miter saw somewhere other than in a corner.
In real life, you'll probably want the table saw turned 90 degrees with as much space as possible fore and aft. Wheels would be a help - because in the position shown it'll be in the way every time you want to get anything of any size into or out of the shop.
Shelves are good. You might consider building shelving units that you can install at least four feet up and that extend all the way up to your DC ducting. That'll make it easy to keep tool accessories close to point of use. In my garage (no longer a shop, but about the size of your shop) I installed pegboard from bench height to 5'; and built wall-to-wall open shelves from the top of the pegboard to the ceiling. It worked well for me - and might or might not for you.
Can your planned DC unit be turned so as to not obstruct either door?
Will the DC ducting interfere with opening the wide door?
What are the grey bars stacked in front of the wide door?
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html
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I hadn't considered the orientation of the DC yet, but that would certainly help. For the table saw, I expect that most of my work on it will be crosscuts and not as much ripping. I figured that if I needed more aft space, I'd open the 6' garage door.
As another reader pointed out, I should have these things on movable platforms. Then I guess I could easily orient the table saw in the direction that I find most useful ... which I probably won't know until I actually start using it.
Jack
Morris Dovey wrote:

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"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" wrote in message

1. Consider putting the bench and table saw back to back and more centrally located, and at the same height, thereby using the bench as your extension table.
2. Consider adapting the "miter-saw-stand-sheetgood-lumber-storage-on-wheels" in the latest (Oct/05) FWW, to be positioned below the shelves where you have the bench and miter saw currently positioned in your drawing.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/07/05
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That would be a great idea if I had the right type of bench. My workbench is a beast and only is suitable for against-the-wall positioning.
A small cable IP development company was going out of business and they sold off their equipment to the public. My "bench" is actually an electrician's workbench ... build like a tank with 18 sockets, super heavy, and a gem to work on. I layers the top of it with a 1/2" high quality plywood and it worked great. It has really nice built-in shelving on its back.
I suppose I could wrench those off and position it against the TS like you suggest. I'll definitely have to play around with that idea.
Thanks!
Jack
Swingman wrote:

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Jack,
Others have made some valid suggestions and I agree that the work-flow will be less than adequate if you use that setup. Although you didn't say anything about future tool additions, a portable planer and 6" jointer certainly should be planned on. I have a 12'x20' shop and although cramped, I have all the tools setup with ductwork in that small area.
Plan for the extra tools now and avoid the hassle of tearing down your ductwork later and adding wiring (120VAC for planer, 220VAC for jointer). A rule of thumb that I found when planning my shop and asking here was to have a minimum of 7' space forward and aft of any stationary tool that you use. Most of the things we (hobbyists) typically make will have a max length of under 7'.
If you decide on the other tools and want some suggestions, let me know and I'll tell you how my shop is setup.
Bob S.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote in message

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Bob,
I could see eventually getting to the point of getting a planer and a jointer ... but SWMBO has already let me go beyond my original limits for tool 'procurements'.
Regarding the DC ductwork, I'll use metal (grounded) ducting for the main tubings. Some people have said (in various articles I've read) that you should use flexible ducting from the main conduits down to the tools, to allow for some movement of the tool. Do you have any experience with that?
I'd love to see a mapping of your workshop. Do you have a link? If not, you can email me a picture ... snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net
Thanks!
Jack
BobS wrote:

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You have mail......PDF file, diagram of my shop layout and a work flow description.
Bob S.
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you care to post it to abpw? An alternative is to email me at iebeevoormij at verizon dot net.
Much appreciated!
--
Best regards
Han
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On its way.......
Bob S.

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Bob,
Thanks! Your layout did give me some other ideas as to how I might tweak my layout. I know that rerouting ducting for the DC would be a RPITA, but I'm keeping the ceiling open (rafters with no drywall ceiling) until I'm sure that I've settled down on my (pseudo) final layout.
Plus, I'll have ample outlets around the room no matter what!
Jack
BobS wrote:

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Ensure lights are separate from power circuits.
On Tue, 30 Aug 2005 21:00:06 -0600, "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote:

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I would consider putting your tablesaw up against the wall on the right hand side of the saw.You usually dont need to extend past the end of the rip fence. All your cutting is done on the left side of the saw. This allows full maximum use of the saw with least of amount of space being wasted. Have fun Guy "mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote in message

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Where are you going to store Wood? With the price of it now days, I am starting to think that it may be a better invertment that a mutual fund. When arranging my shop, room for wood storage was the thing that I most underestimated. Of my non-turning tools, the table saw is the most used. It is centrally located, with same heigh work bench in the infeed end (with space to walk in between, and a large outfeed table. It isn't on wheels. Jointer, planer, small bandsaw, drillpress, and drumsander are on wheels. Chop saw and router table are fixed on a word bench. robo hippy
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You might consider swapping locations of your scroll saw and miter saw. The scroll is usually for smaller work and would be OK in the corner position.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote in message

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That's a good idea. Thanks!
C & M wrote:

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Sorry, the last one got off accidentally. I was also going to suggest flexible vinyl tubing with wire reinforcement to assist with your grounding concerns. I like the ability to change my mind without major plumbing changes.
"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net" <"mywebaccts (at) PLUGcomcast.net"> wrote in message

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I was wondering about the tubing. The flexible type has those crinkles in it, right? Wouldn't that tend to get stuff caught in the tube? YOu know, like the cheap flexible tubing you sometimes see off of dryers. They catch lint like crazy.
What type of flexible tubing would be best?
Jack
C & M wrote:

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