Pulled an old rotted out sill off (having removed the old rotted out
wall above it--it was too far gone to be worth trying to save) and
found under the sill something that looks like soaking wet cardboard,
about the thickness of corrugated board. I'm curious as to whether
the use of such a substance was ever standard practice.
Upon further investigation it appears to be just a couple of sheets of
Kraft paper--whatever it was I scraped the sodden remains off,
pressure washed the area (and got all the spider eggs and cocoons and
deceased insects and the like off the areas that will be hidden when
the wall goes back up), ran a thread chaser down the bolts, which were
in surprisingly good condition, and once it dries I should be good to
go on the new sill, this time with purpose-made plastic sill seal and
pressure treated sills and CopperCoat (Wolman's half-strength
Cuprinol-equivalent, the real stuff being unobtainable locally, at
least not without waiting for a special order) on the theoretically
unexposed areas that were rotted on the pieces I removed.
Going back to my olds architect class days in the early 70's IIRC there was
a felt like material that was soaked with a tar like substance that went
between the sill plate and the foundation. Different building codes in
different areas had different requirements. This was in Corpus Christi, TX.
A polyurethane type "sill sealer tape" is now routinely placed between the
bottom double sill place and the concrete foundation to act as both a gap
filler, moisture barrier, and an air filtration barrier. In some areas this
is required by energy codes.
It's so cheap to do, and the benefits so large, that only an idiot wouldn't
If they are 1/2" in diameter or larger noting is required.
"2006 International Residential Code - Fastener Statement - section R319.3
Fasteners for pressure-preservative and fire-retardant treated wood
shall be of hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel, stainless steel,
silicon bronze or copper. The coating weights for zinc-coated fasteners
shall be in accordance with ASTM-A153.
----> 1. One-half-inch (12.7 mm) diameter or larger steel bolts. <------
2. Fasteners other than nails and timber rivets shall be permitted to be
of mechanically deposited zinc-coated steel with coating weights in
accordance with ASTM-B695, Class 55, minimum."
Given these wonderful requirements, how is it that the "hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel" screws I put into my green wood deck structure all rotted while only the "stainless steel" seem to be surviving after only 10 years.
I have not tried the "silicon bronze" but I do know that the "copper" are really nice in a boat that is nearing 50. I must admit the screws are all covered with fiberglass and resin.
From what little empirical evidence I have, only copper and stainless are the way to go. Only drawback I have seen with the copper is their fragility.
P D Q
zinc-coated > galvanized steel" screws I put into my green wood deck structure
I have been making a minuter of Diesel Fuel and old roof shingles and
tar paper to try and stop carpenter bees and to treat exposed barn
siding and such. It dries - eventually - to form what appears (after a
year or so) to be a pretty good waterproof coating that lets the wood
show through, too.
I also recall reading that Boric Acid solution is used to treat fresh
lumber to inhibit or prevent termite damage. So I sprayed the wood in
my Florida Shed with that before putting up the siding and interior
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