I have a garage plan that calls for a monolithic slab with a 2" pitch
toward the garage door. It looks like the walls are bolted directly to the
slab. My question is, wouldn't that make the whole frame out of level?
How is this normally handled? It is a detatched garage.
Quote: PaulS wrote on Wed, 13 February 2008 07:11
Hi Paul, If the walls are being fasten to the slab is a poor policy if the
garage is constructed with wood. The wood sills,base siding and lower parts of
the wood studding will rot fast.
The best way is to have a concrete footing below grade and have the concrete
foundation set on the footing and have the concrete foundation extend above
ground level about 12" or so then have your garage attached and fasten to the
top of the concrete foundation. This will allow you to pour your concrete floor
to have the 2" pitch. I have seen a thick concrete slabs poured level and
install (one)concrete block on top of the slab all around the perimeter of the
size of the garage and attached the gargae to the concrete bolck. Anyway, I
would suggest before you do anything constructive, is to run this past your
local build code department for his recommendations first. Good Luck
There should be a level curb around the edge tall enough to get the siding
at least six inches above grade. The sill plate will bolt to the curb.
Suggestion: If you're going to be parking cars in your garage (I know,
it's a strange idea) have the concrete guy put a tire stop about four feet
from the back wall. This is just a raised area that cues you not to drive
into the back wall. If the building is to be used for a shop, keep the
I don't necessarily disagree with the above--a row of cmu or a poured
curb is a good thing. But if you are bolting walls directly to the
slab, it will have to be framed so that the top plate is level. Not
that big a deal for a good framer.
Thanks to all for your replies. I have heard of using a curb as well as a
row of cmu to move everything up 8". My neighbor recently had a garage
build on slab with a row of cmu. I will go over with a level and see if
there is a pitch to the floor. I guess marson answered what was unclear to
me. If the floor is pitched without a curb, the walls of the 3 sides would
need to be adjusted for the pitch. That looks like a headache to me. I plan
on building this thing myself and I don't consider myself a framer at all,
just an old man who can follow instructions. So I will not try that. I
will get the plan approved by the permit department, but I want to have a
solid idea of exactly what I will do before meeting with them. I probably
will pour the footing and walls, then the floor so I can get whatever pitch
they tell me I need. Thanks,
Paul, if you are doing it yourself, you are right in not attempting to
build a wall with a 2" taper. Also, the 2", while it sounds drastic,
is marginal for drainage. If your garage is say 24', that is 1/12"
per foot. That's marginal, and you WILL have birdbaths in that. !/4"
per foot is usually recommended for drainage.
I suggest that a easier better way to go would be to install a trench
drain in the center of where you park--the drain can just run to
daylight anywhere convenient. Or you could skip the drainage
altogether. Depends on how much water you expect.
Thats the normal way of doing it Paul. The 1/4" slope is generally for
outside slabs. I found that 1/8" was adequate for the floor inside a
garage, after all, what is going to run down the slope "inside" : a bucket
of water spilled on the floor..some snowmelt off a car parked in a garage in
Normal pitch for exterior concrete is 1/4" per foot. If a garage
is 20 to 24 feet deep, a 1/4 per foot would be 5 to 6 inches. The
2" fall is less than an 1/8th per foot. OP can run it dead level
or slope the whole floor to a center drain for all I care, but
let's keep the numbers in perspective.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
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