You don't use it by the gallon. You just put a little on a rag, then set
the can away from where you are working. Outside, preferably.
And never run with scissors in your hand. You could put yer eye out.
No you are supposed to soak the whole saw in it while smoking. The
flames will reduce the residue (and the saw) to nothing. Then when you
wake up in the burn unit, You can think about what new saw you want.
I have used in the past.....gas, kerosene, diesel (works great on
getting really thick grease off of your hands), brake cleaner, pumice
hand cleaner, a wire cup for an angle grinder, a heat gun and scraper,
an automotive or industrial degreaser, or the sandpaper route. Though
with the sandpaper route, I would start at 150 grit and on a half
You might want to try penetrating oil and a scotch brite pad as well.
(who is running with scissors and untied shoes after I have put out a
grease fire with a big cup of water)
How in the heck did we survive? Lawn darts. Lead paint. Spud guns. Stuff
they have taken off the shelves and now you have to pay big bucks on ebay.
We've protected the current generation from so much harm and evil and
And look at the results. Now instead of your brother stapling you with the
Arrow T50 stapler, they go pay fifty bucks for someone to do it to them.
First of all, I'd use a half or quarter sheet sander with 120grit
dry, after scraping off everything as best you can with a putty
knife. That should get you down to metal and if the sandpaper
comes out clean, the stain won't be passed along to your work,
when you use the table.
Another excellent little product is BRAKE PARTS CLEANER spray. It
comes in two formula, and I'd try each. This stuff works great
for about anything, but I'd use it outdoors. Spray and scrub in
with 0000 steel wool, then immediately wipe. It evaporates like
crazy and is flammable, so again, work outdoors with nothing
If you aren't worried about what happens, try some muriatic acid
in a tiny area, wiping it off quickly.
For some things, bathroom cleaner (such as "scrubbing bubbles" brand)
seems to work when most other cleaners fail. I don't know if tarry goo
is on that list or not.
Sometimes, too, I find a traditional scrub brush (or old toothbrush or
such like) is more effective than an abrasive; the bristles tend to get
down in the little divots and rough bits of the surface better.
"He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain that which he cannot
Have you tried just a heat gun and putty knife?
Xylene seems to get about anything IME. Pour it on, let it set, pour some
more on, scrape, then use medium steel wool. Most hardware stores/paint
stores carry it.
Very explosive! Keep good ventilation in mind.
Often you'll find excellent advice on a newsgroup.
I'd be inclined to take a scraper to it, even a card scraper, to remove the
build up. Clearly this requires some care so as to not score the surface but
it shouldn't be a big deal. After the scraper use coarse Scotch Brite pads
with WD40, kerosene, (or gasoline!) to remove the rest of the asphalt.
Another solvent that would probably work is sold in the automotive stores as
bug and tar remover.
Another mechanical means would be to use an auto body float (file from the
lead sled days) or file designed for flattening cast iron surfaces. Both are
not commonly available today, and require skill to use, but old serviceable
ones can be found.
I equate this problem to cleaning up a maple cutting board counter top that
had gotten all gooey... the owner attempted to sand it but the paper clogged
up instantly. I took a Stanley No 80 scraper to it and had it ready for
mineral oil in a matter of minutes.
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