Fast Orange hand cleaner. I do not like to wear gloves when painting or any
other messy job. Fast Orange removes grease, oil paint, lacquer, wood stain
etc from my hands. Even after it has dried. Yet it leaves hands feeling
good. I bought it at WalMart or NAPA. Don't remember. WW
I'd get some diatom earth - or Mothers polish and polish it off.
Mothers polish at auto shop. Can get red and worst case black polish there.
Rubbing compound - something that will absorb this stuff and cart it away.
Sam Takoy wrote:
You don't say what type of grime you have and what the saw table is made of,
but the saw table looks like the one I am using today. Mine is cast iron
with a rough milled surface. I use mine for many things because I am short
of table space. Often the top gets a little rust, paint splatters and who
knows what on the surface. With the not-too-smooth milling on the surface,
the stuff really bonds. I have found that a good solvent such as lacquer
thinner will remove the dissolvable materials and a run over with a belt
sander with a 120 grit aluminum oxide belt cleans it up and even smoothes
the milled surface without taking off more than a fraction of a thousandth
inch of iron. Don't use a belt intended for metal grinding as it will be too
aggressive, aluminum oxide is good as it will wear down on iron before it
does any damage.
The hairiest solvent commonly available is methylene chloride. Non-
flammable, volatile, causes cancers in California. Buy it at your
paint store in bodied formulations such as StripEase paint remover.
Follow directions. It will cut old roofing tar/cement easily based on
my experience. The resulting goop will need lots of paper towels
preferably placed in the outdoors trash can ASAP. Buy the smallest
amount you can as the stuff does tend to corrode the metal cans if
some casual moisture is present.
If this sounds too scary, try some of the solvents made by 3M and
found at autobody supply stores. The pros that refinish cars have some
really heavy duty stuff for cleaning prior to paint.
Real table saws, no. When they first came out, sometimes those
itty-bitty 'portable' saws (Basically an upside-down circular saw) had
heavily ribbed stamped steel tops. Never understood how a saw with a
tiny table could be much use for anything bigger than a birdhouse, but
they sure sold a lot of them.
Not ribs like a heat sink, ribs like a pickup truck bed. Perhaps
'corrugations stamped into the field area' would be a better
description. Looked like the table extensions on a modern big saw.
Something to keep the itty-bitty top of the saw halfway flat. My memory
could be faulty- I looked at a few of the things maybe ten years ago,
decided they were toys, and decided to do without till I had room and
money for a real saw. (Got the money now, but no room.) As little
ripping as I do, and no cabinetry, the old reliable method of sawhorses,
straigtedges, and clamps is adequate. I have a chop saw for square ends
on 2x and trim.
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