Blocks for bandsaws

[Toller]

I have seen cool blocks recommended here many time.

A book I got from the library said that steel blocks are badly unrated. Heat is not a problem; the only reason not to use them is that they will not support a really small blade properly without risking damage to the teeth. Then he recommends maple blocks; they wear out faster than cool blocks, but are free.

Also, I have seen a composite block on ebay that claims it is better than cool blocks. Anyone tried it?

Comments?

[George]

I'm ceramic now. Slicker than snot, don't wear at all, and with most of my bandsaw work either resaw or green wood, they're great. I keep a set of phenolics around for 1/4" and smaller blades.

Used end-grain red oak at school to protect from the kids. Cheap and effective.

[John Martin]

I use cool blocks or wood when I'm using a small blade that I want to bury in the guide blocks.

For larger blades, steel or even high speed steel tool bits. The HSS bits take longer to grind to shape, but wear forever. Just don't hit one with the teeth.

John Martin

[Roy]

I replaced the original steel blocks with cool blocks mainly due to the screeching sound the metal blocks made. It was fingernails on a blackboard type sound to me.

Regards, Roy

[mac davis]

I switched to the cool blocks a year ago on a saw that sees almost daily use.. I flip or reverse them every blade change and like them a lot.. The blade runs quieter, should last longer from running cooler and the $15 didn't bankrupt me.. *g*

I'll eventually go to ceramic but not for a while.. Mac