Blade tension

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There's several methods for tensioning blades, and it depends on what blade you're using as well as your saw. To summarize:
The "pluck" method: The blade is tensioned until there is a clear note heard from the blade when it has been plucked with a finger.
The flutter method: The blade is set to some initial tension then the saw is turned on. The tension is adjusted until the blade flutters then stops fluttering. You'll have to do some reading on this, as this is only a very basic description of the method. I believe Timber Wolf blades recommend this method.
The "press" method: The blade is tensioned until pressing the blade gently results in a certain amount of deflection.
Checking the gauge on the back might be effective as well, but the gauge doesn't really measure anything. It essentally shows you how much your spring is compressed, but not the pressure it's exerting on the blade. If your saw is in good condition, there's no reason this won't work properly.
Puckdropper
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Make it to fit, don't make it fit.

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On 9/8/2012 8:21 PM, Meanie wrote:

What works for me is to start with the "built in" tension gauge on your saw. Test cut, tighten a bit, test cut, is it better, worse?
As blades wear they require different settings. Use your built in gauge as a starting point and tweak from there.
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On Sat, 08 Sep 2012 21:21:09 -0400, Meanie wrote:

This isn't complicated enough for most, just pluck the blade when it is about the tune of E it is close, works for everything from 1/4" blades to 12" wide bandmill blades in a sawmill.
basilisk
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On 9/8/2012 6:21 PM, Meanie wrote:

This method works just fine for the average saw and the average blade:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/power/bandsaw-blade-tension-flutter-method /
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