I know this is picking nits but, if it matters to you, it's actually
spelled T1-11. :)
(Btw, assuming you will paint or otherwise protect your siding,
stainless is overkill. Galvies are fine for this application.)
Check out this website: http://www.apawood.org
I used T1-11 on my shop when I built it about twenty years ago.
My intent was always to apply clapboard over it, as time and funds
allowed, and that's what happened, eventually.
I used construction adhesive on the studs and nailed with eight penny
galvanized air nails on six inch centers in the field and four inch on
I also ran a bead of architectural sealant in the laps before applying
the overlapping piece.
It is important to get a good coat of paint on quickly, as the
material will degrade fast if not properly coated. You will need a
heavy nap roller skin and T1-11 soaks up about twice as much paint as
what the usual coatings charts show for wood siding. I primed and
first coated my sheets before applying them - it's a lot easier to do
when the sheets are laying flat on the sawhorses. The degrade shows
up in the form of buckling and delamination, so it's worth taking
seriously. Push paint into the top and bottom edges because these are
prime spots for the beginnings of delamination. Get a small roller to
push paint into the reverse batten areas and then backdrag with a
If you will have sections that are more than eight feet high, you'll
need to get the appropriate flashing pieces for the joints.
Make sure to flash the bottoms with drip edge style flashing and let
about a 1/4" to 1/2" space between the top of the flashing and the
bottom of the T1-11. It's worth running 15 or 30 pound felt behind
that flashing, as this is a common point of water intrusion.
The T1-11 sat that way for about twelve years before I got around to
the clapboard - still looked pretty good.
"People funny. Life a funny thing." Sonny Liston
Thomas J.Watson - Cabinetmaker (ret.)
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
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