I've already laid down the law to Carol that the next house we get
after fleeing this city is going to be of concrete or brick - and
single story instead of three. I'm getting too old to be climbing 40'
ladders... (Although the first floor is real brick.)
I actually bought one HardiPlank a year before this project began -
soaked it in water, and generally abused it to determine of it
*really* held up as advertised. I'm only doing this ONCE!
That GP stuff is covered with mold on the backside, and on top of
that, the idiots that sheathed this thing left big holes, breaks and
hammer holes in the sheathing - you can see pink insulation through
the many gaps and holes.... Of course, there is no building wrap
either. They also laid the unprimed GP hardboard siding right up to
and touching the roof shingles - and of course it soaked up water
every time it rained. Heck, the corners weren't even nailed together,
the plates didn't overlap, and the plywood corner sheathing wasn't
even nailed to the opposing wall. I'm surprised the back wall didn't
just fall off... ;-o
The doors were nailed into place through the brickmold with concrete
nails, the windows affixed in the same manner, everything was crooked
with gaping gaps around their periphery, and nothing was flashed AT
ALL and rotted. What a mess... 15 years old...
Not to mention digging up the yard and totally redoing the Quest water
main when it broke last fall for the third time - right after
beginning this "project from hell". They built new subdivisions up
hill from where we are, and the water pressure suddenly jumped from
~90PSI to 160PSI. Really played havoc with all the plumbing. Had to
install new pressure regulators, etc.
All of this is being corrected - new roof, new flashing, new sheathing
where appropriate, building wrap, new siding, new flashing, new
windows and doors... My fear is that we'll never get our money out of
this monstrosity... And my biggest gripe - I don't have time to play
in the woodshop!
Blind nails - pffah! This stuff is getting face nailed with hot dip
galvanized ring shanks! Helps to mask the wavering wall line!
Compared to the phantom air nails in the middle of the planks that
"held" the GP stuff in place, it looks fabulous! No swelling, bubbles
or rot! Paint can cover the nail heads. As for cutting and fitting -
it hasn't been a problem, but I built a jig to make cutting it easier
and more accurate.
Removal of the old siding consisted of grabbing one side and pulling
hard - most of the nails never hit a stud and simply pulled out of the
cellulose sheathing and the strip fell to the ground. It's good we
never got a hard wind here, because most of this would have simply
blown away... They never would have allowed something like this be
built in Florida... Or would they?!
Well, it's back to the roof for me...
I often use what is called "vent skin" construction down here. It is not
recommended for all parts of the country, but works well on the Gulf Coast
There was an article in FHB some years back and they called it something
like "rain screen"??, but it was for a different part of the country.
Basically, instead of nailing the siding to the sheathing, it is nailed to
vertical 3/8 thick furring strips on top of the sheathing ... the resultant
cavity runs from the bottom of the sheathing, all the way up past the
soffit, and into the attic cavity.
This will a allow a roof with ridge vents to pull/circulate air through the
resulting space behind the siding, and any moisture trapped there will have
a chance to dry out. You need to put an insect screen at the bottom of the
cavity behind the siding, but that is easy with a new plastic product on the
I did my current house this way and happy with the results.
The lower floor with brick masonry work is done in a similar fashion,
as is standard practice, but I wasn't about to do it on the rest of
the house. Maybe when we build our dream home in the woods. With the
98% humidity levels here in the summer, it would be a good thing.
IMHO, if they had properly wrapped this house, and made sure the
sheathing was contiguous, it would have stopped most of the mold that
was present. Much of the moisture was migrating through the walls
from the inside of the house.
Sorry, Mike ... I am having a devil of a time remembering the name of the
stuff. It looks like plastic 1X2 with holes drilled through the width. You
cut and install beween the furring strips, at the bottom of the first course
of siding so insects can't get in the cavity.
I first used it a couple of years ago and will try to find an old invoice
with the name on it ... might take a day or so. I ordered from a place here
in Houston that caters to builders and specializes in moldings, wood and
building materials you can't generally find at lumber yards or the BORGS
ITMT, until I locate that invoice, maybe the following will lead you to the
Fine Homebuilding - February/March 2001 - #137
RAIN-SCREEN WALLS: A BETTER WAY TO INSTALL SIDING
by Mark Averill Snyder
"Spacing siding away from housewrap promotes ventilation and drainage for
long-lasting siding and paint."
Thanks Swingman. What I'm doing is a bit different...
We had perpetual ice buildup problem on our house because the entire front
roof was not vented at all, and the rear roof was poorly vented. Now, 20
some years later, we decided to fix that problem since we had to put new
shingles on anyway. We could not just cut in soffet vents in front because
the contractor that built the house cut the roof rafters to miter down onto
the top course of logs (log home) instead of birds mouthing them and running
them out. (You'd really have to see it to understand the problem). Instead
of tearing off all of the roof decking and figuring a way to vent it better,
we decided to tear off the shingles and leave the roof deck on. I got 200
sheets of 1.5in rigid insulation board for free that was being taken off a
commercial roof by the company that my brother in law works for. All I had
to do was pick up the insulation. This stuff is about R1.5 to the inch so,
it adds to our existing R30 nicely. We laid that down on the existing roof
decking and then ran 2x4's laid on their side up the insulation and screwed
it through the insulation into the old roof deck. Think of this as purloins
run the wrong way. Then we decked over that with a new roof deck. This
left us with a 1.5in air channel between each of the 2x4's for air flow up
to the ridge vent. The key is that we had aluminum bent for new fascia that
runs about an inch wild of the original fascia and steps to the original
fascia. It does not step to be in contact with the original fascia, but it
steps to overhang the top of the original fascia a bit, but still about an
inch wild of the face of the original fascia. This makes for a nice look of
the fascia, instead of a massive hunk of 1x8 for a fascia and the 1in wild
leaves an air gap of 1in for the air to flow completely along the edge of
\ <------------- New Dripedge and Fascia of Bent Aluminum
| | <----------- One Inch gap between original fascia and
new fascia for airflow
| Slight over lap of new fascia
bottom and step of original fascia
| <------------------- Existing Dripedge and Fascia Made of Wood
Phhhew. That was a lot of typing. Anyway, now I'm left with coming up with
a way to keep bees and the likes out of this air channel. I'm thinking of
just using rolled roof vent and stuffing it up in that 1in gap. I saw your
post and thought I'd look at other options before committing to any
I have replaced probably 1/3 of the siding on my house that was built 20
years ago with Hardiplank. It is doing very well. I replaced it 4 or 5
years ago. I am also finishing up on a storage shed that is 99% Hardi.
I was able to get Masonite to pay for a lot of the cost.
We missed the window of opportunity on the GP law suit, and they
probably wouldn't have covered it anyway due to the "builder's"
improper installation technique. It's all out of pocket for us!
Well of course it takes more maintenance that brick, and stone,
and concrete, and.........
Nobody is arguing that T1-11 is as good as brick.
Hope you realize that you just made a good argument for not buying a
house in Houston. OTOH, I wouldn't live in Houston if the house was
Comes already primed, and providing it's painted within 30 days, the
warrantee on Hardi-Plank is 50 years. It's what I did my shop-ette
in. Looks good, weighs a ton and-- given that it's cement board--
should hold up pretty darned well. (Hell, 50 years is a longer
warrantee than _I_ have right now so all's good.) ;>
It's cement. Be prepared to destroy a couple of circular saw blades.
Cutting it creates cement dust. Be prepared to breathe a lot of
cement dust. :)
Michael (Geez, am I really turning 50 this month?) Baglio
IIRC you should paint within 6 moonths.
It's what I did my shop-ette
While you can cut it with a carbide blade I found that the diamond coated
blades with no teeth work very very well compared to carbide blade with
teeth. When I first sided my house with Hardi I used the common carbide
circle saw blade. When doing repairs on other houses and when doing my shed
I used the cheap, $15 diamond coated blade from HD. This blade works like a
dream, stirs up less dust, and makes a cleaner, smoother cut. You have to
look for this blade as the sales people point to the $50 blade. So the $15
blade only lasts 75% as long as the $50 blade. It has already outlasted the
carbide blades and in this instance, the cheaper blade is cheaper in the
I hope so, 'cause it's been 3 months for my siding...
I can't get SWMBO to decide what color she wants... :-\
I'll second that emotion - I'm using a Dewalt diamond siding blade,
and it has thousands of cuts on it - no sign of wear yet. FAR better
than any wood cutting blade, carbide or not. Heck, the time saved
changing out blades is worth what it costs - $45 as I recall. I
couldn't find the Hardy recommended Hitachi blade locally.
I suggest you put on a first coat, and wait for her to tell you that you're
wrong. It won't matter what the first color is. You will be wrong anyway.
Even if SHE picks out the color.
This should buy you time until next spring.
Talk to your respected local professional paint retailer, and get the right
who has maybe 12 gallons of paint that turned out not to be quite the right
I try to use sample blocks, but it still probably won't work. :-\
Hey, I hate painting - this is going to be done ONCE. Regardless of
Pure Acrylic of an undetermined color. :-o
This spring, you should have a "not quite right" yard sale...
SWMBO wanted to paint her office as I was painting the hallways and
such - insisted she would finish the job. That was a year ago and the
trim still isn't finished. And we ended up with an extra can of paint
that will never be used because when she bought an additional can -
you guessed it - different manufacturer, different color. I didn't
find it until 3 months later - another paint can goes into the
collection of 17 paint cans and other crap stacked up in the basement
that I have to trip over to get the the breaker box. :-\
That's certainly the first time I've heard of T-111 not being suitable for
sheeting. There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
belief that it will not add rigidity to a structure. I do agree with your
point about not using construction adhesive.
I did not say it was not suitable for "sheathing". I said that it
eventually needs to be replaced. Sooner than later if not properly cared
There are a lot of buildings around that would seem to defy your
Yes it will add rigidity but I would much rather depend on the 1x4" running
diagonally and inset into the studs. Much of the T1-11 and similar panels
that I have replaced will pull off of the house with out removing the nails.
Water penetrates at the nail holes and the wood rots. Going back to the
adhesive, it is customary to wrap the out side stud walls with a water proof
material such a tar paper to insure that water does not get into the
building through joints and seams. Gluing as you and I both agree would
require that shield be left out of the equation.
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