The walls in my kitchen are far from square and after fitting my worktop
there are gaps between the worktop and the wall of differing sizes at
various intervals along the 3m length. I didn't have the patience or skill
to plane the worktop to fit the wall.
I don't know the correct way to seal a worktop to the wall but I was going
to seal it to the wall with transparent silicone before tiling. After tiling
should I then run a bead of silicone along the tile/worktop edge or will the
grout be sufficient considering I have already sealed the worktop behind the
But now that I have large gaps how do I seal the worktop to the wall or
should I forget this and just tile, bringing the tiles out from the wall
with large lumps of grout to cover the gaps.
Or should I fill the gaps with something and then seal with silicone and
then tile. If so what can I fill the gaps with so the silicone does not just
disappear down the back?
BTW, the exposed chipboard on the worktop edges have been sealed with PVA.
I don't want a rotten worktop in 2 years!
Depends a bit on just how big the gaps are!
Normally you could tile and then run a bead of silicone sealant along
the tile / worktop joint. If your gaps are so big as to be bigger than
the thickness of a the tiles (i.e. you wouls still have a vertical gap
at this point) then you have a bit more of a problem.
Perhaps one of the worktop sealing strips would do the trick. Fix in
place as directed and then ensure that is well sealed in with silicone
top and bottom.
Don't panic. We all have the same problems.
If you are tiling, then you have the perfect finish to solve gap problems.
If you are tliling up to cupboards, its even greater happiness, because
you can just skling some MDF between the cupboards and the worktop, and
tile over the now perfectly flat surface.
Experience of trying to get a suite of vertical tiles flat on an uneven
wal suggests this is a better option.
Somehw you have to bodge out the gaps to get a smooth tiling sufarce.
You camn skim plaster, or use board with various spacings of battens, or
indeed shape the rear of the board itself to fit the wall.
In my case, the presence of a nice gap behind the MDF akllowed me to run
cables where there were none previously, and hide a nasty piece of
In fact it looks to neat, I haven't tiled it yet.
If you have almost no movement between worktop and tiles, no need for
silicone either - Just use grout. I am tending to use silicone first to
seal, then tile over, and make grout the final fine finish.
That's quite a definitive statement. Not at all porous would mean that it
didn't soak water at all, glass is not porous. MDF is most definitely
porous, though maybe not as much on the face as it is on the edge as the
face is tighter packed. Try leaving a puddle of water on the face of a piece
of MDF ............ and watch it bloom.
Concrete IS porous. Practically all plastics aren't and practically all
metals aren't, and I could be bothered, I could probably find a few more
things. Concrete would need a plastic additive or a plastic sealer to be non
A relatively simple task of scribing, place the wortop in position so that
it's front edge is equal distance from the carcasses ..... calculate what
overhang you require and subtract that from the current distance, then
either using a block of wood cut to size and a pencil, or a pair of compass
set to the right distance, you scribe along the back edge
the second sealant will stop the tiles and worktop seperating and looking
ugly with later movement
You haven't said how large .. you might, now, have to either resort to dry
lining that section if the gap is too big, or building it out with plaster.
Don't try and build it out with adhesive, it won't work.
sounds like a BIG gap ...... maybe you should have taken it slower and asked
these questions BEFORE fitting the worktop
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