washing machine with no sink

[urchaidh]

I want to plumb a washing machine and (probably) a dishwasher into a waste outlet that will have no sink.

I've always had a P-trap and standpipe option but was wondering about these appliance adapter things - they look neater somehow. However, as there's no sink at the top I'd just need a wee one way valve to break vaccuum. All the appliance adapters I've seen come with the sink connector at the top - can anyone point me at one that would suit my needs.

Or should I just stick with the standpipe?

[Frank Erskine]

Do you actually NEED a standpipe? I'm toying with the idea of using a length of 22mm "overflow" pipe through the wall, with a 90 deg elbow on the inside, and a short length of 22mm to which to attach the outlet hose from the washing machine (using a Jubilee clip). Outside, the pipe will be attached to a further elbow and a feed to the drain gulley. Since there's a non-return valve in the washing machine there shouldn't be any problem with smells from the gulley.

[urchaidh]

The soil pipe I'm using feeds directly into the drain so I' fairly sure I'd need a trap, even with a sealed system and non return valve.

Also, were I to seal the w/machine outlet rather than just stuff it down a standpipe I'd need some for of vacumm breaker above the trap.

So the alternative to a standpipe would be a P-trap with applaince attachments above and an inlet valve as a vacumm breaker. I've only ever seen these with sink connectors at the top.

Can you get a blanking plate for a sink connector?

[Frank Erskine]

I did buy a new P-trap with an appliance connector, but even replacing the trap bit with a shallow one, the 40mm outlet pipe through the wall would have to be relocated a few inches lower, so I'm thinking of the easier option!

I'm interested in your reference to a vacuum breaker. Only five minutes ago I was talking to my neighbour who mentioned that when their washer-drier empties it often empties the P-bend, allowing smells into the kitchen - he used an appliance-connector when he refitted their kitchen.

[mrcheerful]

I would recommend the normal standpipe, no trouble in the long term, no smells, easy to disconnect the washing machine, very cheap, etc. etc.

Since it will be hidden behind the machine the aesthetics are irrelevant.

mrcheerful

[Pete C]

Hi,

What would do is a washing machine trap with an anti-syphon device, see part #15519 or 15520 on this page:

A standpipe should be fine where there is no chance of the drain getting blocked and/or backing up, or the sound of the wash water gurging away isn't objectionable :)

However a normal trap capped off with a small hole in the cap should be enough to break any siphoning, subject to the above.

cheers, Pete.

[<me9]

I was warned against using overfow pipe for this purpose, the push fit connectors may blow off. Extending the pipe also increases emptying time.

Don't you need an air break in order to prevent syphonage from the machine?

[Doctor Drivel]

A spring loaded check valve will stop that. There are solvent welded 3/4 overflow pipes.

Extending emptying time is no great thing.

[Frank Erskine]

Marley overflow pipe is cement welded, I believe.