Tools for removing a studwork wall quickly?

[Jake]

What are the best tools for removing a studwork wall quickly? Electric chainsaw?

Cheers,

Jake

[Lurch]

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 16:35:53 GMT, [e-mail] (Jake) strung together this:

Whoa cowboy. A claw hammer will suffice, and possibly a decent woodsaw too. Unless you really think you want an electric chainsaw for the collection..... Now for ultimate rapid removal try a JCB and\or a team of demolition contractors with a wrecking ball, make sure they're approved and insured though.

[Richard Sterry]

My bro-in-law swears by those Scorpion-style saws - also very good for chopping out old wooden window frames. I'm afraid I don't know the generic name for such saws, Scorpion being what B&D call 'em, but someone will be along in a minute to tell you. :-)

Rick

[Christian McArdle]

Reciprocating power saw, or powered hand saw.

Christian.

[Tony Bryer]

Before you get too keen check that it's not loadbearing and there aren't any cables or pipes running through it.

[TonyK]

Prefer a petrol one myself... but, first:

1) remove all plasterboard and insulation 2) remove any cables 3) remove any pipes

Then, *only* cut in the middle of studs to avoid nails and screws.

Then use a decent bar to lever top and bottom plates and seperate studs.

The cutting but is quite minor really.

[Peter Stockdale]

Yes - great bits of tackle for geriatric diyers who are too knackered to use unpowered stuff. Handy for tree pruning as well.

Pete

[Owain]

"Jake" wrote | What are the best tools for removing a studwork wall quickly? | Electric chainsaw?

Invite the karate club around

Owain

[Jake]

Tony, Thanks for the guidance. Removing all the plasterboard sounds easier said than done - but perhaps not...

Thanks to the other respondees too. No it's not a loadbearing studwork wall; I know, because I built it myself a few years ago.

Jake

[Andy Dingley]

Iaido club. Karate people will just punch holes in things.

[Paul Mc Cann]

Did this recently and a reciprocating saw was the tool. The blade is flexible so it is possible to use it close to the floor to cut through those nails and then it was easy to cut through the nails joining the sections vertically. The right blade cuts through wood or steel or plasterboard. We didn't even take the plsterboard off in some cases until we had the sections outside and then only to re-cover the wood frames which were re-used.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Once you've gained access it will simply pull off, perhaps breaking at each stud. A couple of wide (bolster) chisels will soon start it again.

[N. Thornton]

Last time I cut up framework I used a hand held circ saw: incredibly quick. Miles faster than reciprocating types. If youre doing it but cant see the wood, I;d use a nail blade for safety.

NT

[The Natural Philosopher]

sledge hammer. electric keyhole type saw.

[Kalico]

[snip]

Remember to cut at a slight diagonal.

Replace 'spam' with 'org' to reply

[Jake]

Thanks for the tip. I wouldn't have thought of that. Makes good sense!

Jake

[mark]

In message , Jake writes

Mattock. :) Really.

[Mark S.]

Everyone's wrong. ;-)

is my "multi-tool" - if you can't break it down or smash it up or rip it out with one of these it's too complicated to be doing the job as diy. :-)

Mark S.