Tank connector tool

When I replaced my cold water tank I used a small vice for gripping the stubs on the tank connectors for tightening. This wasn't very satisfatory - is there a proper tool available for this? What do you guys (& gals) use?

Cheers

Pete

Reply to
PM
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A spanner. But then I've only used types with a hex nut on the inside, not stubs. You might get an adjustable spanner onto the stubs, I've never tried.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Usually jam the end of a suitably sized pipe wrench up the hole from the inside. No need to tighten much as long as you use plastic washers. Overtightening will cuase distortion of the hole and leakage.

Reply to
Merryterry

I use tank connectors with hex nuts on both sides. They work better, especially when you get up to the 3"" and 4" sizes.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar

3" & 4" Tank Connectors? You use a lot of water in your house? No wonder there is a shortage in some places!
Reply to
Merryterry

One of my businesses is supplying water cistern fittings, particularly insect screens, to hospitals, hotels and other large users, although we also do domestic water byelaw* screen kits. Fittings for 3" and 4" overflows are common, but we can supply up to 12" and I even had an enquiry for one to fit

600mm diameter pipe the other day.
  • the name sticks, even though the water byelaws are long gone, as it easier than calling them water supply (water fittings) regulations kits.

Colin Bignell

Reply to
nightjar

Water Supply Regulations, now there is a good joke! Glad you stick to them Colin. One of my business is selling Flexible Tap Hoses to Builders & Plumbers Merchants. The hoses are WRAS Approved for use on potable water. Difficult to sell because of low priced Chinese imports that are not approved. Legionella expert has found chinese hoses support legionella and have been removed from a PFI Hospital. Do the Merchants give a shit? do they hell. The regulations allow non approved fittings to be sold but illegal to fit. Now that is joined up thinking by John Prescotts Dept isnt it?

Someone is gonna die because of the bacteriological contamination in pipework containing low grade EDPM (synthetic rubber).

Reply to
Merryterry

I bought some Pegler ball valves that are marked 'WRAS'; would all approved items be so marked, or not necessarily?

Reply to
PM

No requirement to mark fittings. Just that they must conform to BS, CE or WRAS.

If they are marked WRAS It shows they are from a reputable supplier who has had them tested. I bet they were not the cheapest.

Reply to
Merryterry

No, but they were not the expensivest either. I reckon that buying the cheapest plumbing fittings is a false economy.

Reply to
PM

I almost always buy the cheapest, and its all looked identical to the expensive stuff. I did spend 3 times as much for a Pegler lever ball valve once, though this was for the house's main stopcock.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

I dont think a lever ball valve is supposed to be used as a main stopcock. It will shut off too quickly for a start (water hammer etc). I should make discreet enquiries. Usually a screw down stopcock.

Reply to
Merryterry

I really don't think water hammer is an issue on a main stopcock. It's not like you are turning it off and on all day.

I would rather use a turnip.

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Plus if you turn it off when there's little or no flow it won't cause water hammer.

Reply to
PM

Although it will definitely be flowing fast when you really NEED it to work. ;-)

Christian.

Reply to
Christian McArdle

Result! Decided that a flat bit of metal with appropriately drilled holes would be ideal. Came across a metal surface-mount switch with back box, the mounting holes of the back box were in exactly the right place, just needed drilling out a bit. Perfick.

Reply to
PM

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