stablising a bath

[SoWeezy]

having a bit of trouble securing a metal bath so it doesn't move, it's a cheap modern thin metal bath

I've fixed lengths of 6x2 to the floor (they run the length of the bath) and screwed down the feet but the bath can still move laterally I can pull it as much as 10mm from the wall and it moves when you lean on the side to get out

it has really poor fixings for the feet brackets, hooked on either side of the bath and held tight with a threaded hook and adjusted with a butterfly nut I've tightened the nut as much as possible but that hasn't stopped the movement, I don't want to overtighten it incase it dethreads there are 2 loops either side of the bath at one end but I don't know what they're for ?

the bath is flush with the wall along one side and one end and the hoops are near the other end

any suggestions would be appreciated

thanks

[Lobster]

It needs securing to the wall at the top to stop it moving: have you done that? Usually some small L-shaped brackets.

David

[SoWeezy]

there's no way of fixing anything to the bath, unless there's a specific clip/bracket for the job that clips under the lip and is screwed to the wall ?

I could drill through the lip and screw it to the wall that way but don't want to take the risk of ruining the bath (SWiMBO would kill me (c; )

[Andy Cap]

Also, I never rely soley on the supplied legs but put additional appropriately sized pieces of timber to provide proper support throughout the length of the bath and especially if it is used for showering.

Andy

[SoWeezy]

under the bottom of the bath or between the legs and floor ?

[The Natural Philosopher]

Oh, yes - lots of things you can do with cheap baths.

No 1 thing is to stop the bloody things flexing. That's achieved with slabs of MDF and lots of Holts P38 car body filler.

Then you have to fix them to the floors and walls - the blasted legs are usally totally wobbly, and you need something to mount off the bath to the wall.

L ANGLE brackets are good..these are soft enough to be cut and bent to fit under the lip pointing upwards. and plenty more car body filler will sort out the adhesion. Put them where the studs are in a studwork wall, or when attaching to blockwork, recess the plaster a far but - then tile over or fill with plaster and repaint.

As far as the front of the bath and sides go, glue timber batten to the underside of the libs using yet more car body filler, and make up 2x2 studwork framing to support the bath edges. Panel in with ply or MDF and tile or paint to suit.

Now to get on and stiffen my PLASTIC bath and so the above to it...;-)

[Andy Cap]

Under the bottom of the bath. There is usually a chipboard sheet and supporting that with judiously placed bits of wood, cut to the appropriate depth, makes all the difference to the stability.

Andy

[Lobster]

TBH I've never fitted a metal bath so I'm not sure. Plastic baths usually come with a concealed timber batten under the lip so you can screw to that. I'm sure you'll need to fix it there somehow though, otherwise you'll never get a watertight seal twixt bath and wall.

David

[BillP]

I find an easy and successful way to secure a steel bath the wall is to use two short lengths of wood, say 6" long 2" x 1" or whatever is handy. Cut a small V groove near one end, this picks up the lip of the bath rim. Drill a clearance hole to take a fixing screw, and clamp the bath rim to the wall using a screw and rawlplug.

See

for me.

Best regards Bill

[Paul R]

This could be used in conjunction with Silicon. When I installed my heavier steel bath last year, I asked a local plumbers merchant for the fixings for the bath, and was recommended to just silicon in the bath. This is what I did, and seems to work well, with no other fixings.

Paul R

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[SoWeezy]

thanks for all the help !

[John Rumm]

What the others said, and also chop a rebate out of the wall along the lip of the bath such that it can be set into the wall. This means any tiles etc can drop down onto the flat top of the bath and not the roll edge. Helps add stiffness and eliminates potential moisture traps.