Specifying new windows


I'm about to print up drawings for my two & single storey extension to send out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?
Regards
IanC
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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I'm about to print up drawings for my two &amp; single storey extension to send out to builders for quotes.&nbsp; For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)?&nbsp; Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Regards</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>IanC</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A Few thoughts in no order - </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>1. Hard fixings to BWK rather than crazy foam.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>2. Internal beading.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>3. Multi point locking.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>4. Consider tilt / turn for upstairs for easy cleaning.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>5. Consider size of air gap in DG unit. More is good. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>6. Consider gas filled units rather than air.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>7. Look at different types of glass. I think Pilkington K is still the best around&nbsp; for energy effency. see here <A href="http://tinyurl.com/3435p ">http://tinyurl.com/3435p </A> </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>8. Individual locks rather than a mass produced system where your neighbour can end up with the same key as you.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>9. Do you really want UVPC windows. If something breaks timber is far easier to repair.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>10 If you do want UVPC look for a profile which will match others, or is easily available and not some end of the line crap.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>11. Don't buy brown plastic windows they look like **** :-)</FONT></DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2><BR>---<BR>Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.<BR>Checked by AVG anti-virus system (<A href="http://www.grisoft.com ">http://www.grisoft.com </A>).<BR>Version: 6.0.558 / Virus Database: 350 - Release Date: 02/01/2004</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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On Sat, 10 Jan 2004 20:48:37 GMT, "Space Cowboy"

out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

    Bearing in mind all the recent discussion in this newsgroup, I would expect you to want trickle vents on most windows to provide ventilation when required. (some trickle vents look more attractive than others!).     For the upstairs windows, you will probably want stays which enable you to lock the windows partially open, or at least prevent a young child climbing through a main window opened to provide ventilation on a warm evening. If you do not want this yourself, you may find a prospective purchaser wants it in the future.     Give some thought as to whether you want the main opening windows hinged at the top or at the side - this probably depends on the type of the existing windows.     When you get the qiuotes in, have a look at samples of the hardware, especially handles, used by your preferred supplier. Our first, cheapest, replacement window uses a much inferior design which I did not think about before placing the order.     If possible go and have a look at an installation locally by a supplier before placing an order. When we shortlisted two suppliers for a major reglazing job an inspection of one installation ruled that supplier out of court for poor workmanship. Even the better suppliers seem to leave a surfeit of extra holes where they drilled the frame wrong or put a screw in the wrong place within the opening.
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I will add the requirement on upstairs and other windows to be wide enough to allow exit in fire situations. There is a regulation on this somewhere.
Brian S Gray wrote:

out to builders for quotes. For the windows, anybody got any advice about what to say about the quality, and particularly the security aspects of uPVC windows and doors(I'm not thinking of B Regs such as ventilation/escape/safety glazing which I've already covered)? Is there a security standard, perhaps an insurance requirement?

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think its the building regs and the opening light must have an opening at least xmm to allow escape. Not sure what x is though
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Space Cowboy wrote:

650mm or 950mm. One or the other. From here it looks like 650mm as my windows are designed 'on the limit'
They must open wide, too. No stays that only allow a crack.

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Only if it is required to be used for a means of escape. Not every window does
dg

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dg wrote:

At least one per room I think. Even if smoke alarmed and with access to two seperate stairwells.

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The requirement is for all habitable rooms to first floor to have one escape window, mininmum size 0.45m x 0.45m, and a minimum of 0.33m2. This usually means a window 450mm wide, and 750mm high, fully openable (ie not sliding hinges unless with a release mechanism).
Thanks all for the suggestions, it was the non B Regs aspects I was interested in (I'm a local authority BCO, so hope I can get the ventialtion/escape glass/escape/containment issues right) particularly security & actual quality of the windows.
thanks again
IanC

at
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Thought the foam was meant to be purely an infill - not the means of totally supporting a frame.
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Dave Plowman wrote:

Foaming glue - just a higher desnity foam - does both, and is in fact a darned good way of hloding a frame in a cavity wall without cold brodging it.
It fixes, it draughtproofs, it insulates and it water proofs, and it can be sliced back, made good and easlt decoretaed after a wipe with acrylic caulk.
I thnk its exceptionally good stuff for the job.
Hoever its expensive and therefore the temptation is to use insufficient quantities.
When its worse than useless.

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Please don't.

Some of the options I recall when I specified mine...
Shoebolt locking (handle also operates locking bolts at window corners). Only added 200 to the cost for a whole house.
Internal or external beading. There was a time when internal beading was more secure, but with the window tapes now used, it makes no difference to security. Internally beaded windows (particularly opening panes) have much larger uPVC sections which can look unsightly.
Profile of the beading -- triangular or scotia (curved profile).
Black or white rubber sealing strips. Was strongly recommended to go for black as they always form a black dirt line where they contact the glass -- this looks horrible if they're white but doesn't show if they're black.
I did mine when there was a choice of standard or Pilkington K (or equivalent) glass, but you're too late for that choice now.
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Andrew Gabriel

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