Soldering Iron for Computer Cables

Sigh.

Can anyone recommend a soldering iron that, er, works.

I have a small customer computer cable that I need to solder to an RS232 DE-9. (i.e. 4 small wires onto a mounting block.)

I've got a Antex 16-18w iron that I got from Maplin a couple of years back, but rarely used. It doesn't even melt the flippin solder when I try to tin the tip.

So, any recommendations for a decent iron?

Reply to
Robin
Loading thread data ...

I wonder if you're trying to use lead-free solder with an iron which wasn't designed for it and isn't up to it?

If that's the only thing you're going to use it for in the next

5 years, I would suggest buying another cheap one. I don't think they normally fail very often -- you were just unlucky.

If you really want a good one, they cost. I have a Weller TCP which I bought when I was at University, and over 25 years later, it's still brilliant. You can still buy it -- over £50 when I last looked (was nothing like that much when I was a student!).

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

I do these quite a bit, and have no trouble.

I use an Antex 16-18W soldering iron.

Do you have some of the new lead-free solder, I wonder?

Reply to
Bob Eager

Yes, lead-free solder. Didn't realise I needed anything special for the iron. Having a look at

formatting link
shows me I need 350-400°C.

Thanks

Reply to
Robin

Surely what you want is leaded solder? ;-)

Tim

Reply to
Tim Downie

I'm surprised at that. Are you leaving it long enough to heat up? Have you removed the bit to make sure it's not got crud insulating it? Is the spring clip that grips it in place still present and positioned where it does the job? Because it should cope with even lead free solder.

Nowt wrong with Antex - it's my make of choice. But like any iron you need one specified for the type of work you're doing. And the type of bit fitted influences this as larger ones act as a heat store for the larger jobs the iron is capable of. Your iron is for normal PCB work.

If you do decide on a new one the definitive type for all electronics will be a temperature controlled 50 watt low voltage type. They were once expensive, but can be bought on Ebay etc for about 30 quid these days.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Just get leaded solder! Easy to obtain if you are not 'commercial'.

Reply to
Bob Eager

if you can still get it that is ,that's why I stocked up :-)

Reply to
Kevin

I don't think it is in the small quantities the OP sounds like he'd use. Sure you can buy it by the reel from the major suppliers - with a minimum order cost - but I've not seen it recently in small quantities from a retailer like Maplin.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I think Weller is the best you can get in terms of quality of materials and they are excellent designs ergo-wise too. I've had my tcp one for 25 years and it still works fine. btw RS still sell leaded solder (at least they did about 3 months ago). Interestingly the smaller diam resin cored stuff is more expensive that the thicker stuff... well I suppose it's trickier to pour the flux into those tiny little holes :-)

Reply to
dave

Of course you can - I bought 12 reels of it 2 months ago (from CPC)

Reply to
geoff

seconded or what ever count we are up to for a Weller, my last one went on for 30 years before I blew up the electronics in the iron,now I have a simple fixed temperature one, you just change the tips to change the temperature and this one will probably out last me

Reply to
Kevin

So do I, but it's easily available from everywhere except Maplin, and apparently will remain so.

Also, given my component stocks are all lead tinned, I'm not sure what happens if you mix those with lead-free solder (or use leaded solder with lead-free components, which are slowly starting to appear in my stocks). I've not noticed any ill effects yet.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Been quite a few comments recently about Weller not being of the same quality as once.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Haven't seen it in the sheds. Or Halfords.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

The executor of my estate is going to hate me, as (s)he makes repeated trips to the dump with the things I've "stocked up" on.

Reply to
Huge

So you can I thought it had been banned as you could not sell an item with lead in it any more

Reply to
Kevin

If you get another iron go for a 25w rather than the piddly 15 watters. This'll make it usable for many more apps.

As for a decent iron, theres really no need. I've never come across an iron that was working properly that couldnt make a decent joint.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

It will nee to remain available for some considerable time to allow service and maintenance of existing equipment.

Reply to
John Rumm

as long a the wattage matches the job that is, you cannot expect a 5w decent iron to be able to solder the same joint as a 200W

Reply to
Kevin

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.