Soldering Iron for Computer Cables

[geoff]

Ah - the Drivel method

[Dave Plowman (News)]

But a power hacksaw usually cuts straight...

[Man at B&Q]

It's also a myth that lead free is any more difficult to work with. I've used nothing else since before the RoHS came into force. It needs a higher temperature and the joints don't look as good, that's all.

Agreed, modern Antex bits (maybe something to do with the extra caoting to resist the more aggressive fluxes used with lead free solder) can be a real bugger to tin when new. You have to catch the just right, otherwise no end of wiping on a sponge will help. A pot of tip cleaner is useful.

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

Try a new tip and be sure to tin it properly (easier said than done with some).

MBQ

[Man at B&Q]

Rapid don't, and never have. Farnell have been known to waive theirs if you ask nicely. You may be charged a "handling charge" but there's no minimum order value for the goods.

MBQ

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Yes - but that's effectively the same thing. Rapid charge a lot for P&P on small value items. Like 5.50 + vat for a reel of solder.

I also doubt Farnell would waive their charge for a new customer.

[Doctor Drivel]

Maxie, you are so fabulous.

[John Rumm]

I admit to not having tried this technique with lead free solder (I still use traditional solder), but usually I tin a new bit the first time by dipping the part I want tinned into a plumbers paste flux when the bit is cold (i.e. before it has ever been heated). Then switch on, and keep test applying flux cored solder until it melts. It should then wet nicely. I usually cover in solder and leave it to stew for a few mins before wiping on a damp sponge. After that - ready to solder.

[Frank Erskine]

I have a brand new tin of Fluxite, as well as a part-used one. Can you still buy it?

ISTR some leccy board guy using BICC (?) flux, sort of purple in colour, which had a most wonderful smell when heated :-)

[Andy Burns]

I think mine has lost its lid and collected all sorts of chaff.

Yes

I seem to get on better with this stuff for plumbing now

[John Stumbles]

FWIW LiDL in Reading currently have a 30W iron with a quite neat small pointed tip, and a stand with a springy holder, all for a fiver!

The stand even has a pair of fold-up plastic arms with croc clips on ball-joints for holding bits while you solder them.

Dunno how good the iron is but I figured I was buying a stand with a free iron thrown in :-)

[whisky-dave]

}It's also a myth that lead free is any more difficult to work with.

I work in a university electronics lab where the students need to solder, an experienced solderer can adapt, it takes longer to heat the joint up so you need to be more patient. we also found that our Antex 18W irons just weren't up to it so we started replacing them with the 25W versions, I think this is because the lead free tips are physically thicker so take more heat. Another point was that you shouldn't mix solders so that made it difficult to reuse or work on an older project. Although most information is for production processes. It also seemed that the fumes given off were worse than those with leaded solder. After a few months we went back to leaded solder, for general electronics work. I did find that it took longer to get a good joint with lead-free solder, but I'm guessing with practice it'd be fine, as for studetns well it was just to difficult as the tendancy was to leave the iron on the joint/component too long. I checked on the law/regulations and I think it's only manufactures of goods that need to go over to lead-free presently.

}I've used nothing else since before the RoHS came into force. It needs }a higher temperature and the joints don't look as good, that's all.

Yes a good lead-free joint looks very much like a bad 'dry joint' with leaded solder.

[<me9]

Was that coraline flux? Definitely a good pong!

[Frank Erskine]

I think you're right. Ta!

[Appin]

The message from "Ron Lowe" contains these words:

Good AVOs go for about £20, with case, on ebay.

[Appin]

The message from "Man at B&Q" contains these words:

I must say that the American irons which have screw-in elements and screw in tips are very pleasant to use and extremely versatile. The one handle can be used for a vast number of different purposes when fitted with an element and a tip to suit the job. Mine are all over thirty years old and just great. Far better than an Antex, Solon, Weller or whatever. For cheap and not-at-all nasty there are always our friends at Lidl -- and at least they honour the guarantee on what they sell. 3 Year warranty on a soldering iron? Not bad.

[Appin]

The message from Ian White contains these words:

OK, very reasonable P and P. However, for those who have an account, RS Components stuff ordered online is still, AFAIK, free P and P. And they are also (off topic) one of the few places where you can get WD40 in 5 litre containers AND get it delivered at no extra cost. As a "hazardous substance" many carriers won't touch it with a barge pole.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Fine for an occasional user I'm sure - but if you're using one all day ergonomics are more important than versatility. Which to me means light weight and performance. A bit like attachments for a power drill versus separate units. Irons are so cheap I can't see the point in having what you describe, except to carry around in the toolbox. And for that sort of emergency thing I prefer a gas one anyway.

[Appin]

The message from "Dave Plowman (News)" contains these words:

It comes down to what suits you.

I've a couple of old Henley Solon 25W irons -- not my first choice for anything.

I've a few American handles/elements/tips -- I like them very much and they're pretty light in use.

I never cared for Antex irons myself -- those with slip-on tips tended to let the slip-on tip slip off rather too often.

I've a miscellany of other irons and guns, including Lidl ones which are fine.

I agree re power drill attachments. I wasn't suggesting that one should constantly be changing iron parts -- though it takes less time to change an element or bit than to put a new blade in a jigsaw with a quick-change mechanism. It's more that such a setup provides a very easy way of tailoring an iron to suit your needs.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

I'd say you were either using the wrong bit for the element or the spring clip wasn't positioned properly. It goes towards the top of the split (nearest the handle)

I've never had one come loose despite having used them for many many years.