smallest timber size

hi everyone,

we're putting up a partition wall to separate one very large existing room into two smaller, but still reasonably-sized rooms.

We are wondering whether there is any minimum size stipulated for the timber in the partition wall that we will build. It will bear no load whatsoever, just serve to separate the rooms. Oh, there will be a door in the wall as well. Does that make a difference?

We've tried looking through the Building Regs on-line but can't find anything about on this subject.

Thanks!

Reply to
a
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If it's a normal height room 50x75mm (ish) studs should do fine. As you realise strength is not a factor, but you don't want it to give appreciably when you lean on it or wobble when the door shuts (shades of Crossroads)

Reply to
Tony Bryer

The structure must be sound but this is subjective. For example some metal stud walls are remarkably thin. However one stipulation you can't ignore is that the plasterboard is supported at the correct pitch - 300mm or less for

9,5mm, 450mm or less for 12mm.
Reply to
G&M

If nothing else, your door will determine the size. The door needs to sit in a door casing and the idea is to get one that corresponds to the size of the stoothing you're using plus of course two thickness of plaster board. Get 75x50 and ask for an internal door case and you can't go wrong :))

If you start messing around with smaller cross section timber, or metal laths, you're going to finish up with a door casing that overhangs the face of the walls. Quite embarrassing !!

Anyway, 75 x 50 at 16 inch centres gives a really solid wall, especially if you put your noggins in at shoulder height :))

xav

Reply to
xavier

If you want thin, I'd go with metal framing. Wood size depends on length of run, and whether it can be supported along the top or not. For example 1.5 x 2.5 is good and secure for a 4' run, but flaps like a weasel fixed at 10'. 2 x 3 is probably the most common size.

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

Where did you get this stipulation from? I've just been putting up

1200x2400 12mm board with 100x50 studs at 600. Seems pretty solid wall to me. Can't find any recommendation anywhere in building regs, text book or catalogues.

cheers

Jacob

Reply to
jacob

Originally from a quote on this site from somebody who appeared to know what they are talking about. Can't remember exactly who it was but their name didn't begin with I and end with M.

I remember it well as I'd just put 9.5mm plasterboard on a 450mm pitch and had to unscrew them all and add extra timbers. But the result was noticeably sturdier, even though the original job was still far better than existing stud walls in the house.

Reply to
G&M

Have you considered noise transmission, or maybe this is not an important factor dependant on what use you are going to make of these rooms. British Gypsum used to be a good source of info regarding stud walls (white book)

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I fitted out my 2 storey extension I used 4x2s, double plasterboard and glass fibre wool in certain areas where noise could be a problem with door linings to match of course. Regards Tom

Reply to
Tom

and

Just had a look at the site, I haven't been there for years it appears to have changed somewhat, and the info on timber studding has been archived at

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Good Luck Tom

Reply to
Tom

I'd add that door framing looks nicer if you make your own, because you can detail it whatever way you want, and use whatever kind of wood and finish you want. It does depend on the kind of house though: if everything else is standard shape white painted then best to blend in.

BTW I would always use the thicker 12mm board. Its quite a bit stronger and offers longer fire resistance, and the extra cost is close to zero.

Regards, NT

Reply to
N. Thornton

On 26 Jun 2004 15:35:53 -0700, a particular chimpanzee named snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (a) randomly hit the keyboard and produced:

If the width of the wall is an important factor, you could try a solid laminated partition

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've seen them being constructed; they look flimsy before the last layer of p/bd is on, but once completed, they are reasonably robust. You can't fix anything to 'em, mind.

Reply to
Hugo Nebula

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