Sink sealing (sink sinking)

[Tim Streater]

In addition to the horrible dark marble-finish worktops, the previous owners of this house put in a, I dunno, suspended sink I suppose it could be called for the want of a better word.

On observing water in the cupboards under the sink, SWMBO investigated and observed that the sink has sunk by a few mm, thus allowing water past the gasket. The sink isn't loose, as such, but if I lift up from underneath then up it comes a few mm, pivoting at the back somewhere as if it's no longer properly held up at the front.

If I let it dry out properly, is doing a temporary seal with silicone an option?

Just as soon as we can get a round tuit, the kitchen is getting done anyway, with a proper sit-on sink with integrated drainer. Oh yes, that's another beef. The the marble counter has some drainage channels ground into it, trouble is they are a uniform depth so water doesn't drain out of it. And where the suspended sink is gasketted to the counter etc is a great area for grot to get in. Who dreams up this "modern" shit anyway?

[Martin Brown]

I'd have thought so - unless you can figure out how to easily jack the thing back up and support it to sit on its gasket again.

"Designers". They seem oblivious of the rules of physics that determine that water will only flow downhill. I have seen far too many stylish designs where water pools on rather than flows off the draining board.

I guess in a "designer" kitchen you are supposed to stuff everything into the dishwasher and keep the sink pristine and dry for "best".

[alan]

On 25/07/2013 18:33, Martin Brown wrote: .

Designer Kitchens are not designed to leave the showroom.

[fred]

In article , Tim Streater writes

Mutt's nuts for this kind of job is Plumbers' Gold:

Both sealant and adhesive, and can be used on wet surfaces. Personally I'd try to remove the gasket altogether and leave this to do the whole job. Leave to set for 24hrs and will prob work best if a small gap, say

2mm (min), is left.

One thing, you absolutely must mask off the surrounding surfaces adjacent to the join as it is evilly sticky. Mask, fill, mate, smooth off with tool then remove the masking. I'd use PVC insulating tape for flexibility.

[The Natural Philosopher]

+1

[Tim Streater]

The builder gave me a tube of Geocel "The Works" wet and dry surface sealant and adhesive, which I applied to the joint. It's gone off now and has stabilised the sink itself. Trouble is it looks like shit because I don't know how to apply the stuff and then make it look neat. Using the arse end of a pencil just pulled all the sealant of the sink :-) still by insisting I got it back there, but as I say, no one would employ me for my siliconing skills. I expect I can trim some of the worst looking bits though.

Meanwhile SWMBO found another possible "real" reason for water under the sink: the drain hose from the d/w. This was just plugged into one of the extra drain outlets under the sink, and left to sag. That meant it made a very sharp 180deg turn and it has a small split - no strain relief, another gash bit of work. I've now applied a cable tie and some duck tape - another temporary fix until we get the kitchen redone.

Still, knowing our luck, I've probably pulled the drain hose off at the d/w end and there'll be a small-hours flood when we run it next.