Second failed security (PIR?) light

[Clive]

Hi,

I have had two Enlight EN-PFL200 (??) 150W "security" lights. Both lasted less than a year. I think that the water that got into the sensor has caused the problem. Seems a bit of crappy design to me. I'm going to test the light (somehow). I'm thinking I will stick a 13A plug on the wire and plug into the mains and check a few voltages just to confirm it is dead.

Has anyone a recommendation of a 150W PIR light that has given reliable service for more than 3 years? The purpose of the light is to provide reassurance for the neighbours and to give the message to intruders "we know you are there" - although a determined intruder would just smash the light. Maybe I should mount it higher .... Is there a maximum distance from the PIR to the "motion" that needs to be adhered to?

The light is situated on a wall overlooking a driveway with no residential windows being affected when it lights up - only two bathrooms and an office. And 150W isn't exactly lighting Wembley stadium - so I'm not being anti-social putting this thing up.

Thanks

Clive

[Clive]

The light looks very similar to the following model

[John Rumm]

Alas many examples of this sort of light seem to have poor quality PIR components. I have concluded that you are better of using a non PIR version with a separate PIR sensor. While more expensive, these seem more reliable.

If you are going to use one with an integrated sensor, then wire it in

3&E so that you can also connect to the switched output from the PIR. This allows you the option of using the internal PIR to switch other lamps (although watch the max load - some are feeble), or using a discrete PIR to switch the lamp with integrated one.

provide reassurance for the neighbours and to give the message to

They usually have a fairly long range - at least 8m

[Richard Russell]

Steinel models have a good reputation, but they're expensive:

Is there a maximum distance from the PIR to the "motion"

The Steinel sensors seem to be sensitive; a 12m range is quoted in the above page. They supply 'shrouds' that can be fitted to mask the sensor from directions in which there are sources of nuisance activation (e.g. a boiler flue).

Richard.

reply by email change 'news' to my forename.

[Andrew Gabriel]

Also, the correct positioning for the sensor is very rarely on the light itself. (Light should normally be much higher than the sensor.)

[Tim Lamb]

In message , Clive writes

I have had problems with 150Watt PIR lights sourced from B+Q they actually say made in China for B+Q!

Versions bought from electrical suppliers seem OK and not much more expensive.

While we are on the subject, on a relatively low building, say 5m mounting height, it is impossible to position the reflector such that it is not illuminating passing aircraft and yet get the 12m quoted range from the PIR detector. I have taken to sawing off the plastic stop!

regards

[ARWadsworth]

They are the sort of lights that I offer no warranty with if I fit one.

If it fails when I am walking down a customers path after fitting one then tough luck.

I make sure the customer knows this before I fit it.

Adam

[John]

Does Tim imply that these lights are not supposed to floodlight the houses across the road and illuminate the air when a cat walks by?

I was in Homebase a few days ago and someone was discussing buying such a light and commenting that it was cheaper to buy a 500 watt light than a 150 watt light. I wonder what they really needed!

[The Medway Handyman]

Agreed. I'll fit PIR's that the customer buys, but I won't supply & fit.

Dawn/dusk with an 11w energy saving lamp is a better option.

I've been through about 12 of those poxy PIR security lights in 25 years. Apparently the lamp blowing will cause a triac (or something) to fail. My dawn/dusk lantern (suggested by the knowledgeable chaps here) has been going for 5+ years without a failure.

[Adam Aglionby]

Most of them seem to have a relay nowadays, audible click as they trigger.

Have 7 of them, covering dead end lane , all have been chanaged out at least twice in last 10 years.Put copper grease on the safety glass screw.

Wickes ones were OK but last batch didn`t have adjustable time. B&Q Pantshursts were chronic. Current TS 500W are a bit weak on construction side, hinges are a weak point.

Seperate PIR isnt hugely more expensive and may get you a better trigger zone.

Cheers Adam

[Richard Russell]

Steinel provide a three-year guarantee. I've had to claim once (light stuck on continuously) and they replaced it with a new unit, but I still reckon they're the best of the bunch - which they ought to be for what they charge - and they've got a helpful UK office which is probably more than can be said for the models in the sheds.

The current Steinel products (HS502, HS152 for the integrated units) are different from the ones I've got so I don't have personal experience of them.

Probably true, but I've found that mounting the integrated Steinel ones at about 4.5 metres is fine (they're very sensitive). The PIR detection zone is comparable with the area illuminated.

Richard.

reply by email change 'news' to my forename.

[js.b1]

Whilst only a few data points (3) I found that those PIR shielded by a roof seem to last longer than those exposed to prevailing wind & gust driven rain. By last longer I mean 15yrs compared to 2yrs - and that was B&Q too.

I have always meant to try steinel, but due to Part P and external connections I just migrated most to internal switches - more reliable, no PIR to change in hissing down dark night winter weather (which is when they choose to fail!).

[robert]

Agreed. Having replaced shed bought PIR floods several times I changed to an integrated Steinel with no problems for the last 3 years.

Have you seen their LED units - amazing but at UKP295 ex vat a bit on the expensive side!