Salvaging builder's botch - window reveal

[James]

The builder reused the existing upvc window frame when he built our extension.

Originally there were half-inch upvc filler strips clipped into both ends of the frame to extend its width.

He measured the width with and without the filler strips and decided to build the opening the width of the frame minus the filler strips as it was an exact number of bricks and made the spacing easier.

Now the window is fitted, it's obvious why the filler strips were there

--- to give enough clearance at the hinges for plastering/boarding.

There's a pic here:

anyone suggest a way of plastering/boarding and tiling the reveal that doesn't foul the hinges? There's less than 1cm between the hinges and the blockwork.

[ALex]

The only way get builder to cut back reveals with a stone saw to allow for plaster clearance,not a disaster at this stage,or purchase new window to size.next time get a window company to fit window,they tend to understand these things better.

[Phil L]

you may have to use backing plaster and skim this one reveal rather than dryline it. a thin coat of sand and cement followed by normal plaster would be best IMO - I would have said bonding or browning, but they are too porous for what /may/ get damp coming through any tiny gaps around the window.

[George]

I'd use one level of Dry wall adhesive and then tile up to aquired thickness.

If damp is going to be apparent Phillip then the job has really been a bodge job.

[Phil L]

He can tile directly over the sand/cement if he wishes.

Given that it's tiles, there's more likely to be pooling of condensation on the cill, this can (and does) track up bonding / browning etc.

[mogga]

Ask the builder what's going to do?

[mail]

James Get an angle grinder and cut out what you need to replaster Keep this to a minimum by using Wedi board Chris

[Maris]

Wear a dust mask though. I had to do this when a purpose made sash window turned out to be just a smidgeon too wide. Maris

[James]

Thanks for the advice. I'm just not sure how I can get into the corners successfully. I can see that a grinder or Stihl saw would take the majority out but near the lintel is going to be tricky.

[David]

That would be the obvious thing but I was glad to see the back of him.

[James]

George, are you saying to use dry wall adhesive as a plaster skim and then tile directly on to that?

[James]

The window frame doesn't actually cover the vertical DPC between internal/external skins. Is it OK to just plaster across the DPC?