removing broken bolt in oven...

[Bob Eager]

[Bob Eager]

Again, if Darren wants one I can give him one or two.

[Bob Eager]

Used on the old DEC racks (with round holes). If there aren't any around, I have some.

[Alan Braggins]

You probably need a special tool to do a decent job of it, but you can improvise with a nut and bolt and washers and spacers.

In Cambridge, Mackay. Locally to you if you aren't near Cambridge, or online, no idea :-).

[Tim Streater]

Ah yes, Mackay's. Amazing hardware store that.

[Peter Parry]

Cage nut needs to be fitted from the other side to which you have no access. Rivet nuts (especially for a hole now nearly 10mm) usually need horribly expensive setting tools. A better solution might be to make the hole bigger so a captive nut can go through and then mount the captive nut (eg

on its own small steel plate. Pop rivet the steel plate (backed with fire gum) into the oven wall.

[Thomas Prufer]

There's a tool to fit them, like a pop rivet tool.

However, I've been told that a nut and bolt can be also be used to set them. Insert bolt, tighten nut against top of the rivet nut, using suitable washers and spacers and such.

Thomas Prufer

[Dave]

Peter, I assume that this nut is forced into the steel plate so that the serrations keep it from rotating. If this is the case, I would try and peen the edge of the serration end, so that the heat/cold cycles don't loosen it over time. If it does loosen, the next time the bolt is removed, the nut might fall out into the void.

Dave

[Peter Parry]

You are correct - the insertion method is to press the fitting into the metal sheet. Once inserted the end is expanded by putting the flat end on a steel plate, putting the ball end of a ball pein hammer into the serrated end and whacking the flat end of the ball pein with another hammer to turn over and expand the insert.

[Adrian C]

e.g

[spamlet]

Without actually seeing the way your shelves and the like go in I had got the impression that you needed the bolt to suspend a shelf or its bracket from. If you don't need the head, you could always saw it off after tightening the lock nut, or just use threaded rod sawn to size instead. You can also get taylor made studs with allen sockets in the end - though I can't say I've ever needed to buy any as I used to test them years ago, and have had plenty to fill any occasional need I've had for them until now (used to be v useful for holding carbeurretteurs on...)

S

[D.M.Chapman]

Right, just had a look at it and have managed to sort out something with a stainless bolt, washer and a cross dowel I found in the bottom of my box-of-crap-that-might-be-handy-one-day :-)

Original bolt on one side

on other side :-) the hole out slightly so it was long enough to get the cross dowel in with a lump of gun gum. Turned it so it was across the narrow part of the hole and then a washer and a thin nut I found laying around in the office. I mangled the thread up on the hidden end and screwed it into the dowel until it jammed so hopefully it won't be tempted to come loose...

It's running a cleaning cycle now - if it survives that I'll declare it fixed :-)

Thanks for all the ideas. As always it become more obvious when sat in front of it with a load of bits to play with :-)

Cheers,

Darren

[spamlet]

Well it's very good to see the end results of a long thread: and I reckon your 'bodge' (from the outside at least) looks better than the original! (The car looks pretty impressive too: did you make that as well? It's looking more and more like I'm out of my league here! :-)

I'll have to see about getting one of these picture posting places. Is flickr what diy group people generally use?

Cheers, S